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POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

BOOKS ON COOKERY AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY

SIMPLE HINTS ON CPIOICE OF FOOD, %vilh Tested and Economical Recipes. For Schools, Homes, and Classes for Technical Instruction. By M. C. Angwin, Diplomate (First Class) of the National Union for the Technical Training of Women, etc. Crown 8vo, is.

HOUSEHOLD COOKERY RECIPES. By M. A. Rotheram, First Class Diplom^e, National Training School of Cookery, London. Crown 8vo, 2S. ]

MANUAL OF HOUSEHOLD WORK AND MANAGEMENT. By Annie Butterworth, Do- i mestic Arts Department, University College of South V'^ales and Monmouthshire, Cardiff. Crown, 8vo,

2s. 6d.

LIVERPOOL SCHOOL OF COOKERY RECIPE BOOK. By E. E. Mann. Crown 8vo, ir. 6d.

HOUSEHOLD COOKERY, PRACTICAL RE- 1 CIPES. By E. Crichton, First Class DiplomPe, Northern Union Schools of Cookery. Crown 8vo, ir. 6d. I

THE MODEL KITCHEN. By Lucy H. Yates. | With 46 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 2s. net. '

A TEXT-BOOK OF DOMESTIC ECONOMY.

By F. T. Paul, F.R.C.S. Part I. With 96 Illustra- tions. Crown 8vo, 2s. Part 11. With 79 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 2s. Complete in i vol. Crown 8vo, 41.

A TEACHER’S MANUAL OF ELEMENTARY LAUNDRY WORK. By Fanny L. Calder and E. E. Mann. Fcp. 8vo, u.

LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.

LONDON, NEW YORK, BO.MBAY, AND CALCUTTA

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY

BOOK

BY

M. M. MITCHELL, M.C.A.

LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.

39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON NEW YORK, BOMBAY, AND CALCUTTA 1907

All rights reserved

L'NIVF.RSITV

LIBRARY

LEEDS

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INTRODUCTION

The question of food, as well as that of cooking, is one of the highest importance, for what we eat must be of far greater consideration than what we hear or see.

It is therefore all the more gratifying to find that people generally have become alive to the fact that good cooking is one of the greatest factors to maintain good health.

The use of a good Cookery Book is one of the best helpmates towards producing nourishing and tasty dishes. There are legions of so-called cookery books, good, bad, and indifferent, and the authors of the good books are chiefly practical men and women, cooks and teachers, who have done and are doing much to place dietary and cooking on a truly scientific and useful basis.

The present book, the proofs of which I have been privileged to see, with its excellent collection of practical recipes and many useful hints, will form another addition to those books which perform a useful mission. Miss Mitchell, the Authoress, has had many years of practical experience as teacher at the Polytechnic School of Cookery — her task, to compile this book, has by no means been an easy one; for she has spared neither time nor effort to turn out a reliable manual on “ Home Cooking,” and I wish her every possible success for her literary enterprise.

C. HERMAN SENN, G.C.A., A.I.J.

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PREFACE

As the well-being and success in life depends very largely upon the digestion and proper nourishing of the body, it is an all-important requirement that a clear understanding of the selection and preparation of food be acquired by those in a household on whom these important duties devolve.

The art of cooking is to prepare the food so as to obtain the highest nutritive value, and to present it in the most attractive manner, therefore an effort has been made in the following pages to give the principles and practice of cookery in as concise a manner as possible.

The contents of this book, while it will be found useful to pupils in class, is specially addressed to the artisan and middle-class housewives, to whom it is most necessary that they should obtain the highest value with the least outlay and the avoidance of all waste.

I have every confidence in presenting these directions and recipes. 'I'hat they are as practicable as possible is proved by the successful application of them by the large numbers of my pupils who, during the last fifteen years, have passed through the Cookery Classes at the Polytechnic.

M. M. MITCHELL, M.C.A.

The Polytechnic,

Regent Street, London.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

PAGE

FOOD I

CHAPTER II

MARKETING AND SEASONS FOR FOODS . 14

CHAPTER III SOUPS

Brown vegetable soup — -Clear gravy soup — Consomme — Consomme a la Dauphine — Consomme k la Royale — Cressy soup — Fish soup — Giblet soup — Green pea soup — Hollanclaise soup — Lentil soup — Milk soup — Mock turtle soup — Mulligatawny soup — Mutton broth — Ox-tail soup — -Palestine soup — Pea soup — Potage a la St. Germain — Potato soup — Soup bonne femme — Semolina soup — - Spring soup — Tomato soup — Vegetable marrow soup— White vegetable soup 24

CHAPTER IV FISH

Boiled dried haddock — Boned and stuffed herrings — Croustads of curried shrimps — Fillets of soles k la Dauphine — Fillets of soles a la Maitre d’Hdtel — Fillets of haddock k I’Indienne — Fillets of soles with Matelotte sauce — Fillets of turbot k la Venitienne — Filleted and fried plaice — Filleted herrings k la Sefton —

Fish cakes — Fish pie — Fish pudding — Fried sprats — Fried sprats in batter — Fried sprats in egg and bread crumbs — Grilled had- dock la Maitre d’Hdtel — Lobster cutlets — Lobster soufBre —

Orlys of sole — Oyster souffle — Russian fish pie — Scallops of lobster — Sole a la Colbert — Sole au Gratin — Soused herrings — Soused sprats — Stuffed and baked haddock — Water souche . . 38

CHAPTER V

NOTES ON MEAT . .

54

X

CONTENTS

CHAPTER VI ENTREES AND JOINTS

I'AOt

Baked meat — Beef olives — Boiled leg of mutton — Boiled salt beef and dumplings — Braised Liver — Calfs brains a la Milanaise —

Calfs brains, fried and piquante sauce — Calf’s head en tortue — Casserole of chicken — Clarified fat — Cornish pasties — Creme de Volaille — Crepinettes of rabbit — Crepinettes of sweetbreads — Curried mutton — Cutlets of mutton a la Proven9ale — Dripping — Friandines of sweetbread — Fricassee of chicken — Fricassee of rabbit — Fried liver and bacon — Fried mutton cutlets — Haricot mutton — Irish stew — Jugged hare — Lamb’s sweetbreads larded and braised — Legs of chicken a la Wellington — Mayonnaise of chicken — Pork pie — Puree de Volaille a la Polonaise — Quenelles of veal — Ragout of rabbit — Roast meat and gravy — Roast sheep’s heart — Savoury goose — Savoury stew — Souffles de veau a la Portugaise — Souffles of beef — Steak and kidney pie — Steak and kidney pudding — Stewed rabbit and pork — Stewed steak — Stewed steak and dumplings — Stewed steak and macaroni — • Stewed steak and rice — Stewed tripe and onions — Stuffed and roast rabbit — Stuffing, chestnut — Stuffing, sage and onion — Stuffing, veal — Tartlettes de Volaille a la Talleyrand — Toad-in- the-hole — Veal a la Marengo — Veal cutlets and tomato sauce . 74

CHAPTER VII COLD MEAT COOKERY

Beef roll — Croquets of meat No. i — Croquets of meat No. 2 — Curried cold meat — Curried croquets of meat — Cutlets of beef a la Portugaise — Ham and potato croquets — Hashed beef — Meat fritters — Meat and potato cakes — Minced meat — Minced mutton and tomatoes — Minced veal and tomatoes — Minced veal and tomato rice— Mutton patties — Rice and meat cutlets— Ris- soles of meat — Russian cutlets — Shepherd’s pie — Slices of mutton, devilled — Veal cake — Vegetable marrow and minced mutton . 103

CHAPTER VIII SAUCES

Apple sauce— Anchovy sauce — Bechamel sauce— Bread sauce— Egg sauce — Fish sauce — Hollandaise sauce No. i — Hollandaise sauce No. 2 — ^Horseradish sauce — Italian sauce — ^Jam sauce— Lemon sauce — Lobster sauce — Mayonnaise sauce — Melted butter sauce — Mint sauce— Mustard sauce — Onion sauce— Oyster sauce — Piquante sauce— Shrimp sauce— Sweet melted butter sauce— Tartare sauce— Tomato sauce — Venitienne sauce— White sauce — Wine sauce

CHAPTER IX

VEGETABLES AND SALADS

Asparagus— Boiled beetroots— Boiled cabbage— Boiled artichoke- Boiled new potatoes— Boiled potatoes— Boiled rice— Braised celery— Braised Spanish onions— Brussel sprouts— Cauliflower

CONTENTS

XI

PAGE

au gratin — Cauliflower fried — Curried vegetables — Globe arti- chokes— Haricot beans — Haricot beans saute — Lentil cutlets — Mashed turnips — New carrots and parsley butter— Plain salad— Potatoes a la Maitre d’ Hotel — Potato salad — Salsifies and white sauce — Salsifies fried in batter — Spinach and gravy — Spinach with cream —Spinach and poached eggs — Stewed celery and white sauce — Stewed mushrooms — Stuffed mushrooms — Tomato salad — Winter salad 123

CHAPTER X

BREAKFAST DISHES

Bacon rolls — Baked eggs and tomatoes — Crevettes a I’Indienne — Devilled beef bones — Devilled eggs — Eggs a la Franjaise — Eggs au gratin — P'ried kidneys — Grilled kidneys and bacon — Ham croutes —Kedgeree — Kidneys a la Portugaise — Kidney omelet —

Poor man’s omelet — Potted bloaters — Potted meat No. i — Potted meat No. 2 — Sardines with devilled sauce — Savoury eggs and tomato sauce — -Savoury omelet — Stewed kidneys and mushrooms — Tomatoes and buttered eggs 137

CHAPTER XI

SAVOURIES

Anchovy croutons — Anchovy eggs — Anchovy tartlets — ^Cheese pastry for biscuits or tartlets — Cheese souffle — Cheese straws — Croutes a la Sefton — Devilled cod’s roe — Devilled sardines — Eggs a la bonne femme — Eggs a I’Indienne — Favourites au Parmesan — Gondolines — Macaroni cheese — Olives stuffed with anchovies — Parmesan tartlets — Sardine canapes — Savoury tomatoes — Stuffed olives — Victoria eggs — Welsh rarebit 145

CHAPTER XII

PUDDINGS AND SWEETS

Apple and arrowroot pudding — Apple Charlotte No. 1 — Apple Charlotte No. 2 — Apple cheesecakes — Apple fritters — Albert pudding — Baked apple dumplings — Baked college pudding —

Baked jam pudding — Batter for frying — Black cap pudding — Blancmange — Boiled apple dumplings — Boiled batter pudding —

Bread and butter fritters — Bread and butter pudding — Bread pudding — Cake fritters — Chocolate pudding — Chocolate tartlets Christmas pudding — Cocoanut cheesecakes — Cold Charlotte pudding — ^Cornflour blancmange — Currant cheesecakes — Cus- tard shape — Date pudding — Exeter pudding — Fig pudding —

Friars omelet — Golden pudding and sauce — Ground rice pudding Hominy fritters — Italian pudding — Lemon cheesecakes — Lemon pudding — Lemon roly pudding — Lemon sponge — Marma- lade pudding — Meringues and vanilla cream — Milky rice pud- mng Mince meat — Omelet souffle — Orange cheesecakes — Orange cream — Orleans pudding — Palace fritters — Pancakes Pancakes No. 2 — Pastry custards — Pineapple fritters Princess custard tart — Queen’s pudding — Semolina pudding —

xii CONTENTS

PAGE

Steamed tapioca pudding — Sweet omelet — Tapioca or sago pudding — Vanilla cream — Vanilla souffle — Wholemeal pudding —Wine jelly 154

CHAPTER XIII

BREAD, PASTRY, AND CAKES

Almond icing — Almond macaroons — Baking powder — Brown bread — Chestnut biscuits — Chocolate macaroons — Cocoanut buns — Cocoanut macaroons — Cream buns — Dough cake — Dough nuts —

Flaky pastry — Fondant icing — German shortbread — Genoese pastry — Gingerbread — Ginger buns — Ginger nuts — Girdle scones — Ground rice cake — Hot cross buns — Household bread — Lemon buns — Lemon rings — Luncheon cake — Madeira cake — Milk rolls — Mocha cake — Oatmeal biscuits — Orange cake — Petits choux — Plain currant cake — Plain seed cake — Prepared flour — Puff pastry — Raspberry buns — Rice buns — Rich fruit cake — Rock cakes — Rough puff pastry — Royal icing — Sally lunns — Short- bread— Short pastry — Shrewsbury biscuits — Snow cake No. i — Snow cake No. 2 — Spice buns — Sponge cake No. i — Sponge cake No. 2 — Sultana scones — Swiss roll No. i— Swiss roll No.

2 — Victoria sandwich — Walnut cake — Water biscuits — Water icing — Wholemeal biscuits — Wholemeal scones — Wine biscuits — Yorkshire tea cakes I79

CHAPTER XIV SICK-ROOM COOKERY

Arrowroot pudding — A cup of arrowroot — Barley water — Beef tea — Beef tea raw — CalPs foot jelly — Castle pudding — Chicken broth — Egg flip— Egg jelly— Egg and milk— Fish croquets— Grilled sole — -Gruel — ^Iceland moss tea — Lemonade — Light pud- ding— Meat essence — Mixed meat tea — Savoury beef tea — Savoury custard — Scallops of oysters — Steamed chop — Steamed fish — Sweetbreads, boiled lambs’ — Tapioca or sago snow — Toast water — Tonic, an excellent — Victoria pudding 204

CHAPTER XV

TEA, COFFEE, AND COCOA .... 216

CHAPTER XVI PRESERVING

Apple chutney — Apple jelly — Gooseberry jam — Marinalade — Marrow jam — Pickled cabbage — Pickled onions — Pickled plums Pickled walnuts— Plum jam — Raspberry and currant jam Rhubarb jam — Strawberry jam

CHAPTER XVII

MANAGEMENT OF COOKING-STOVES AND SCULLERY WORK ....

Inde.x

226

237

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

CHAPTER I

FOOD

•^The human body is a complex structure. It is built up of various tissues and water. These tissues are composed of different compounds, the compounds consist of two or more elements. The chief elements of which the human body is composed are oxygen, carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen, phosphorus, sulphur, chlorine, calcium, potassium, sodium, and iron. All foods which nourish the body contain one or more of these elements.

Elements are not taken into the body as such, but are in chemical combination in various amounts in the compounds called proximate principles, with the exception of air, which is a mixture of gases, oxygen and nitrogen, and a small percentage of other gases.

The proximate principles or foodstuffs enter in the com- position of our different foods, and are similar to the chief substances of which the body is composed.

The foodstuffs may be divided into three classes —

I. — Nitrogenous foodstuffs containing carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur, and sometimes traces of phosphorus.

The nitrogenous foodstuffs are also termed proteids ; they include —

Myosin contained in meat.

Albumen „ meat, fish, milk, and eggs.

Casein „ milk.

Gluten „ bread.

Legumen „ peas, beans, and lentils.

13

2

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

II. — Non-nitrogenous foodstuffs containing carbon, hydro- gen, and oxygen. This class may be divided into —

{a) The carbo-hydrates, as the starches, sugars, and gums.

(b) The fats and oils.

This class is chiefly the heat and energy producers.

III. — Mineral salts, vegetable acids, and water. Mineral matter is necessary for all parts of the body, especially for the harder structures, as the bones, teeth, and nails.

The cells forming the tissues of the body are constantly being used up and wasting away, with every action, both physical and mental. These changes take place even in the quiescent state, the very fact of the body being alive indicates the presence of heat, and heat is produced by the continuous combustion or oxidation in the living body.

This combustion is caused by oxygen acting upon the products of digested and assimilated foods and slowly breaking them up, the useful components repairing the wasted tissues and also building up fresh tissues, at the same time liberating heat and energy. Part of the tissues of the body are always being oxidized. During this process some waste products are formed, namely carbonic acid gas and watery vapour, some of which are exhaled from the lungs and some given off through the pores of the skin.

Suitable foods must then be taken at intervals, which, after being digested and absorbed in the body, supplies matter —

I St for repairing the waste tissues and also to build up new ones ;

2nd to supply heat and potential energy ;

3rd to keep the blood pure.

Some foods are better adapted for performing one or other of these functions ; for instance, the proteids are essentially the tissue formers. All foods that are capable of supplying matter for building up the muscular tissues must contain nitrogen; but as they also contain carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, they can supply products for heat and energy. If, however, sufficient proteids were taken to supply all the necessary heat and energy.

FOOD

3

too much work would be put upon the digestive and excretory organs to eliminate the excessive nitrogenous matter.

The carbo-hydrates are heat producers and force yielders, and can also produce fat ; but as they do not contain nitrogen, cannot build up the muscle tissues.

Fats and oils perform similar functions to the carbo-hydrates in the body, but are more condensed heat givers. As a heat giver, fat has twice the value of starch. Fats and starches may occasionally be substituted one for the other, which allows of great variety in a diet ; but if too little fat is eaten there is a tendency to complaints of a consumptive nature. Fats also supply nourishment to the nervous system. Fatty foods, as a rule, are more difficult to digest than foods free from fat, though fat in a diet assists in the absorption of other foods in the body.

Mineral salts form the hardening matter in bones, teeth, and nails, they enter in minute quantities in the formation of all tissues.

The principal of these are the salts of soda, lime, potash, magnesium, and iron, in the form of chlorides, phosphates, and sulphates. They are obtained from animal foods, fresh vege- tables and fruits, usually in sufficient quantity, with the exception of chloride of sodium (table salt), which is taken as a condiment. This salt enters into the formation of the digestive juice in the stomach. Iron enters into the colouring matter of blood, found in nearly all foods in minute quantities. Phosphate of lime is the chief constituent of the hardening matter of bones, also necessary for teeth. Milk is the best food by which young children can derive this and other essential mineral matter {see Sick-room Cookery), and if they do not obtain sufficient of this class of foodstuff they will be weak and stunted in growth. The vegetable acids found in fresh fruits and vegetables, as tartaric in grapes, citric in lemons and oranges, malic in apples and pears, usually in combination as alkaline salts, in the body form carbonates and help to keep the blood in a healthy condition. If these are excluded from a diet, scurvy is mostly the result, therefore plenty of fresh vegetables and fruits should be taken.

4

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

Water is most important in our diet. More than half the weight of the body consists of water. From 2| to 3^ pints is usually the amount required daily. Some of this is taken in the form of beverages, also all foods contain some — about 90 per cent, of green vegetables and fresh fruit consists of water.

Water acts as a solvent upon foods, rendering them easier of digestion, and by means of it food is conveyed into and through the body, and the waste products from the body.

In addition to the foregoing necessary foodstuffs, there are the accessories, or food-adjuncts, which are not absolutely essential. These include the beverages, as tea and coffee, condiments, spices, and extractives. Without having any value as nutrients, if used moderately they are very useful as stimu- lants and fiavourers, making the true foods more palatable, and by stimulating the digestive juices facilitating digestion.

The amount of food required will vary with different indi- viduals and under different circumstances, whether much or little work is to be done, state of health, size, age, and other conditions, as sex, climate, season, and quality of food.

Work. — Those persons engaged in sedentary occupations usually require less food than those doing hard muscular work.

Age. — Growing children, relatively to their weight, require more food than adults, for not only is food required to repair waste tissue, but also for additional growth ; if they are not supplied with sufficient food, or the right kind of food, they will be stunted or ill-developed.

The assimilative powers in old age are generally much less than in middle-aged or young people; also the body being less active, usually less food is required.

^ex. — The quantity of food required by women is about 90 per cent, of that necessary for men.

Climate and season affect the kind and amount of food required. In a normal state of health, the blood remains at nearly a constant temperature of 98-4° Fahr. in all latitudes. This temperature is principally maintained by loss of heat from the skin. But where the external temperature is above that of the body, as a rule, less food will suffice, especially in the fat

FOOD

5

of the diet ; where the external temperature is below that of the body, the heat-giving food may be increased, a larger amount of fat being appreciated.

No one diet can be given that would suit all adults, but an average diet given by Moleschott for a man in ordinary work, weighing 150 lbs., is —

OZS.

Proteids ....

4'59

Fats .....

2 '96

Carbo-hydrates

I4’26

Salts .....

I '06

Total water-free food

22'87

From 60 to 80 ozs. of water are taken in liquid form beside the amount which is usually contained with the above food- stuffs.

As these nutrients are not taken in the above form, a knowledge of the composition of various foods is necessary in drawing up a diet. Only an average composition can be given, as foods vary so much.

The following is taken from “ Parkes’s Hygiene” : —

.Articles.

Meat of best quality, with little fat, like beefsteaks .

Cooked meat, roast, no drip- ping being lost ; boiled, assumed to be the same .

Salt beef ....

Salt pork ....

Dried bacon

Smoked ham

White fish ....

Poultry ....

Bread, white wheaten, of average quality

Wheat flour, average quality

In 100 parts.

Water.

Proteids.

Fats.

1 Carbo- I hydrates.

Salts.

74'4

20-5

3’S

I '6

54'o

27-6

1 5 '45

2’9S

49' I

29‘6

0*2

—

21*1

44' I

26-1

TO

—

22'8

15-0

8-8

73‘3

—

2-9

27-8

24'0

36-5

—

lO't

78-0

i8-i

29

—

I’O

74-0

21'0

3-8

—

I '2

4°’o

8-0

49 -2

I '3

15-0 i

II’O

2‘0

71-2

o'S

6

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

In zoo parts.

Articles.

Water.

Proteids.

B’ats.

Carbo-

hydrates.

Salts.

Barley meal

11-3

127

2*0

7i’o

3*0

Oatmeal ....

I2‘6

5 '6

63*0

3‘o

Macaroni ....

13-1

90

0-3

76-8

0-8

Arrowroot ....

i5‘4

0-8

83-3

0*27

Potatoes ....

74-0

2'0

o‘i6

21*0

ro

Cabbage ....

QI’O

r8

o'S

5-8

07

Butter ....

Eggs (lo per cent, must be

rs

ro

90-5

1*0

deducted for shell) .

73'S

i3‘5

1 1 -6

1*0

Cheese (single Gloster)

36-0

31-0

28-5

—

4'5

Milk .....

86-8

4-0

37

4-8

07

Skimmed milk .

88-0

4-0

1-8

5 '4

0-8

Cream ....

66'o

2-7

26’ 7

2-8

1-8

Sugar ....

3-0

—

96-5

05

In the above the indigestible cellulose is included under the heading “ Carbo-hydrates.”

The following table is taken from “ Food,” by Church ; —

In loo parts.

Foods.

Water.

Albumin.

Other

nitrogenous

compounds.

Starch.

Sugar.

Gum and pcctose.

j Cellulose.

Mineral

matter.

Barley, pearl

I4'6

6-4

0-3

75'S

i'3

0-8

I*I

Rice

I4'6

7'5

—

76’o

0-5

—

—

o’9

0-5

Peas, dry

14-3

22'4

—

Si'3

2-5

—

—

6-5

3’o

Haricot beans

14*0

23-0

—

52'3

2-3

—

—

5'5

2 ’9

Lentils, husked

I2'5

25 ’0

—

56-1

2*0

—

—

I ’9

2-5

Turnips

92 '8

O'S

1*0

01

—

3'o

I ‘S

0*8

Carrots

Sg'o

o‘5

—

—

0*2

4'5

2'5

2’3

1*0

Parsnips

82'0

12

—

3‘5

I '5

5'o

37

2*1

ro

Beetroot

82*2

04

1*0

—

O’ I

10*0

2 ’4

3-0

o’9

Onions .

910

I ‘5

—

—

0’2

—

4’8

20

O'S

Vegetable marrow

94-8

0*6

—

0*6

0’2

2*0

—

ij

O’S

Spinach

90‘o

I’2

4-0

O’S

1*0

2*0

FOOD

7

Supposing the quantities of nutrients given by Moleschott to be taken as a standard, then the amounts of any given foods that contain these qualities could be worked out as follows : — Let the given foods be bread, lean beef, and butter.

Foods.

Proteids.

Fats.

Carbo*

hydrates.

S.alts.

a

Bread .

8

I

50

i’3

b

Lean beef .

20

4

I '6

c

Butter

90

—

I'O

The above amounts represent the percentage of nutrients in the given foods.

For the amount of bread to yield the required carbo- hydrates—

50^

100

15

5o« = 1500

a =

1500

60

« = 30 ozs. of bread.

For the amount of proteids —

8a 4- 20^

100 ^

.'. 8a + 2oi> = 450 But « = 30

(8 X 30) + 20^ = 450

20^ = 450 — 240

^ 20

.•. ^ = io’5 ozs. of beef.

For the required amount of fats — la + 4^> + goz’

100 ~ ^

.'. la 4// + 90^: = 300

But « = 30 and ^ = io’5 30 + (4 X 10-5) + 90c = 300

goc = 300 - 3 - 42

• r — 228 • • ^ “ 00

^ = 2*53 OZS. of butter.

8

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

Ihe amounts of salts contained in the above quantities would be as follows : —

„ , i’^ X "to

Bread = ■ _ = o’3go

lOO

^ ^ i"6 X lo'i;

Beef = = o’i68

lOO

Butter =

loo 0-5833

This shows a slight deficiency of salts.

Therefore, for the required quantity of nutrients, 30 ozs. of bread, 10-5 ozs. of lean beef, and 2-53 ozs. of butter is necessary.

A most important factor to consider is the digestibility of dilferent foods, for one person may eat a large amount of food and yet not be well nourished, being unable to digest and assimilate it, while another, taking a smaller amount and digesting it, is well nourished and vigorous.

It is important to note that food should be taken at regularly stated times, it should be thoroughly masticated, because the digestive juices act more readily when the food is thoroughly disintegrated. Some foods are digested with less labour to the digestive organs than others. Usually, foods that contain little fat in their composition are easier to digest than those containing a large amount.

The following table gives the approximate results of some experiments by Dr. Beaumont, giving the time certain foods took to digest. These times are by no means consistent in all cases, idiosyncrasies of individuals, and quality of food, will cause them to vary.

FOOD

9

Food.

How prepared.

Time of Chymification.

' H. M.

Rice ....

boiled

i I O

Sago ....

! 99

I 45

Tapioca ....

99

2 O

Barley ....

99

2 O

Milk ....

99

2 O

raw

2 15

Gelatine ....

boiled

2 30

Tripe ....

99

I 0

Turkey ....

roasted

2 30

)) ....

boiled

2 25

Lamb ....

broiled

2 30

Chicken (full grown)

fricassee

2 45

Mutton ....

boiled

3 0

J> ....

roasted

3 15

Beef ....

boiled

2 45

)> ....

roasted

3 0

jj ....

fried

4 0

Fowl ....

boiled

4 0

J > . .

roasted

4 0

Duck ....

4 0

Veal ....

broiled

4 0

Suet, beef

boiled

5 30

Suet, mutton .

4 30

Salmon trout .

I 30

Flounder ....

fried

3 30

Cod fish (cured dry) .

boiled

2 0

Fggs ....

raw

2 0

5) ....

whipped

I 30

M ....

soft-boiled

3 0

J> ....

hard-boiled

3 30

M •

fried

3 30

Custard ....

baked

2 4^

Oysters ....

raw

2 55

stewed

3 30

Fork ....

roasted

5 ^5

,, recently salted . . |

boiled

4 30

>> ,99 99 •

stewed

3 0

Venison steak .

broiled

I ';o

Bread, wheaten

baked

^ 20

Sponge cake

2 20

Apple dumpling

boiled !

3 0

Potatoes ....

!

3 30

99 • . . .

Beans ....

baked

boiled 1

2 33

Turnips .... Carrots

99

3 30

Cabbage ....

3 15

4± 0

Cabbage, with vinegar

raw !

2 0

lo POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

As seen by the preceding table, the method of cooking alters the time of digestion.

Cooking generally increases the value of most foods. First, it breaks up and loosens fibres and brings about chemical changes. Secondly, it destroys parasites and delays putrefac- tion. Thirdly, it gives variety and makes food more pleasing to the eye and palate.

In cooking vegetables, the fibres are softened and broken, the cell walls burst, liberating the starch within, which swells with heat and moisture.

Starch cannot be absorbed as such in the body ; it is acted upon by the ferments in saliva and the pancreatic juice, and changed into dextrine, then into maltose, which is easy to absorb and assimilate. These changes may be partly brought about in the prolonged cooking of starchy foods. Thus, the digestion of these may be commenced in the kitchen.

The changes that take place in meat by cooking are ; parts of the insoluble sinew and connective tissue, which bind the fibres together, are turned into gelatine, which is soluble and easy of digestion; at the same time the fibres of the meat are loosened, making them easier to masticate and to mix with the digestive juices ; it also develops sapid matters. If the heat employed be very great for too long a time, the proteids in the fibres harden and are made indiges- tible, so that the ideal method of cooking meat would be to cook slowly for a length of time, to make soluble the gelatinous matters, and not to raise the temperature suffici- ently to harden the fibres, as in stewing meat, when properly accomplished.

Cooking, though it makes meat more savoury, generally lengthens the time of digestion. Raw meat, if not objection- able to taste, may yield more nourishment in a shorter time than cooked meat.

Most proteids coagulate at a temperature of about 170° Fahr. The chief exceptions are casein in milk and legumen in pulse.

By cooking foods, parasites, some of the bacterial products

FOOD

II

and ferments are destroyed, which delays putrefactive changes for a time.

By practising the art of cooking great variety can be given to even simple diets, thus avoiding monotony, and giving a relish and appetite for foods through the sense of sight, smell, and taste. The aesthetic value of foods is very important to study, for the most nutritious food, as far as its composition is concerned, may often be of little or no value if its appearance or taste is repulsive, through bad cooking, slovenly serving, or becoming too familiar; while, on the contrary, inferior foods skilfully cooked and temptingly served may often create an appetite, stimulate the digestive juices, and make the work of digestion much easier.

The different methods of cooking are roasting, baking, grilling, frying, boiling, steaming, and stewing.

Roasting is a popular method of cooking meat, and is best when carried out in front of the fire, as the meat is then well ventilated, the unpleasant fatty vapours produced by the chemical changes that take place in the fat of the meat do not soak into the joint. During the browning of the outside of the meat, odorous substances are pro- duced, which give the characteristic aroma to roast meat. Only the prime joints should be roasted, and a good fire is required.

Baking is generally employed for cooking bread, pastry, and cakes. This method is only suitable for cooking meat when the oven can be well ventilated to let the greasy vapours escape from the meat, otherwise the flavour is destroyed and it is not so easy to digest.

Grilling is similar to roasting on a small scale. It is a most savoury method of cooking small portions of meat, as chops and steaks. This method is expensive unless cooking a large quantity or grilling by gas, as a rather large bright fire is required for a small piece of meat. Only the prime portions are suitable for grilling.

12

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

Prying. — There are two methods of frying, first in a flat frying-pan with a little fat suitable for omelets, pancakes, liver, eggs, and bacon. Meat fried in a frying-pan has not such a nice flavour as when grilled, and is not so easy to digest, for the fibres of the meat become saturated with fat and taste greasy.

Second method is to fry in a deep pan with sufficient fat to cover the article fried; this is the best way of frying fish, croquets, and fritters ; the articles are usually easier to digest when fried in this way and also they taste less greasy. Though a larger quantity of fat is used, it is not so expen- sive as it at first appears, for if the fat is not allowed to burn, and is clarified occasionally, it can be used a great many times.

Boiling is a method employed for cooking vegetables, puddings, fish, and meat. For meat, after the first few minutes, the water should not again reach boiling point, or the meat will be hardened — the temperature should be kept at 205° Fahr.

In many cases it would be preferable to steam rather than to boil. Fish and meat retain more of their nutriment when steamed ; but if boiled, the liquor they are cooked in should be used for the accompanying sauces.

Steaming makes puddings lighter than when boiled. It requires at least a third longer time and often twice as long as when boiling.

Stewing is the most suitable method of cooking tough and sinewy pieces of meat, as the continued slow cooking changes most of the insoluble connective tissue into soluble gelatine ; thus the fibres become loosened, and the proteid matter in the fibres and juice become coagulated, but not hardened. If the meat is very tough, soaking it in a little vinegar before stewing helps to soften it. The temperature in stew- ing should not rise much above 180° Fahr. It is the most economical method of cooking, for any nutriment extracted is served with the meat in the gravy. Inferior joints can be

FOOD

13

made palatable and diges- tible, and only a small fire is necessary.

Temperatures for Cooking

A knowledge of the tem- perature required for cook- ing various foods may be acquired with practice, but with the use of a thermo- meter many failures may be avoided, as the necessary temperatures can be ob- tained easily. An excellent thermometer has been brought out by Mr. C. Herman Senn, as shown in figure. This instrument registers the temperature of syrup, fat, and water, as well as that of the oven. The cost of it is loj. (id. On it is noted the different degrees of heat required for the various methods of cooking.

Thermometers can also be bought to fit in ovens.

0

S C N nIS

CULINARY THERMOMETE

F

REC9

G

0

c

= 1

400 WHITEBAIT TRYING

400

CARA MEL

"^Ideep frying

fAvHEAT for

■^^iBAKINC

510 PUFF PASTE

525 roasting

312 CRACK

300 SPUN SUGAR

2^0 FONOANT

2SQ

229 transp icing

_

PCARU SVAUP

—

200

212 BOIUNC POINT

200 MERINOueS

—

190 SIMMERING

ISO

180 albumen (eccsI

-

ISO scalding point

—

r water tor

.

100

89 \

iUN MOUUOiNQ

ISO

c

0

i

1

/I

■u

\

/

14

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

, CHAPTER II

MARKETING AND SEASONS FOR

FOODS

Marketing is one of the most important acquirements of a good housewife, especially for those of limited means, to know what to buy and how to select things to get the best return for the money spent, bearing in mind that those articles that cost the least money are not always the cheapest, and, on the other hand, those which cost the most money do not necessarily yield the most nutriment. With a little trouble, forethought, and practice, experience of' what is the best will soon be gained. It is mostly advantageous to the housewife to go to the market herself for fresh provisions, as poultry, fish, and vegetables ; owing to these being perishable, prices will fluctuate according to the state of the market, for if the demand for any special provision be great, or the supply be limited, the price is usually higher.

Owing to the great improvements in cold storage during recent years, and the facilities for rapid and economical transport from foreign countries, most fruit and vegetables can generally be obtained at any season — at least by those who can affbrd to pay fancy prices; but most foods are of a better flavour as well as cheaper at certain times of the year.

Frozen meat, chickens, and rabbits are imported in large quantities and are cheaper than the home fed, though usually of an inferior flavour. Still, great improvements have of late been made in the storing and the treatment of thawing of these frozen commodities, thus enabling those who previously could

MARKETING AND SEASONS FOR FOODS 15

only alford to have inferior joints from home cattle, to have prime cuts from the imported at no more cost; it must be taken into account, when buying meat which has been frozen, that there is about 10 per cent, more loss in cooking than in the freshly killed.

The indications for selecting fish and meat will be given under their respective headings.

The store cupboard should be quite dry and ventilated. It will be found more convenient and usually cheaper to buy most dry provisions, as rice, tapioca, oatmeal, and sugars in 7 lbs., or even larger quantities.

The larder should be away from the kitchen on a cool side of the house, well ventilated, with a current of fresh air always circulating about it. It must be kept scrupulously clean, or food will soon become tainted, the shelves should be wiped down each day, stocks boiled and poured into clean basins, remains of food placed on clean dishes.

Food should be cooled before placing in the larder.

Uncooked vegetables should lie on a slate shelf, or on a stone floor.

Seasons for Foods

16

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

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MARKETING AND SEASONS FOR FOODS 17

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Black game .... from August 20th until December loth.

„ „ Foreign . „ January „ May; are cheaper.

Capercailzies .... „ October „ March ; then foreign ones are obtainable.

i8

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MARKETING AND SEASONS FOR FOODS 19

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CHAPTER m

SOUPS

Soup, if taken as the primary course of a substantial dinner, even if not very nourishing, but well flavoured and warm, acts as a stimulant in the stomach, exciting the gastric glands, and generally enabling that organ to perform its functions more easily.

Stock is the liquid in which meat, bones, or vegetables have been cooked, and which contains an extract from these substances ; used for soups, sauces, and gravies. Fresh or cooked bones or meat may be used. In a well-regulated household a stock-pot is kept on the stove, into which are put any scraps of meat, bones, gristle, or vegetable \ at the end of the day it is strained, and all fat taken off.

Bones and meat for stock must be broken or cut into small pieces. Cold water should be used, and a little salt to extract the nutriment. The whole must be brought slowly to the boiling point; then, the temperature lowered to about i8o° Fahr., the fat and scum taken off". When wanted for clear soups the vegetables should be cleaned, but not cut up, or with the long cooking they may mash and thicken the soup. The soup should simmer for six or eight hours. A long time is required to extract the gelatinous matters. A higher temperature would extract the gelatine quicker, but it would harden the proteid or flesh-forming matter in the meat that is not generally used.

If the stock is skimmed occasionally, it will be much clearer.

Stock should always be strained before cooling. Never allow it to stand in the stock-pot all night.

Soup left from a meal will keep better if strained from the vegetables that have been served in it.

In hot weather, stock left over must be boiled each day, and poured into a clean basin to prevent it turning sour.

SOUPS

25

Any fat floating on the stock may be removed by passing a piece of kitchen or blotting-paper over the surface.

Clear Gravy Soup

3 or 4 lbs. of raw or cooked bones. 2 quarts of cold water.

2 onions.

I carrot.

2 pieces of celery. I leek.

Bunch of herbs. Salt.

Chop the bones into small pieces, removing any pieces of fat, put them into a saucepan and cover with cold water, add a little salt, and let it come slowly to the boil ; then pour in a cupful of cold water. Skim it well, add the vegetables, cleaned, but not cut up, and let it simmer very gently for six or seven hours, skimming occasionally. Then strain it through a soup- cloth, return it to the saucepan, and, if not strong enough, reduce it by boiling. Season to taste with salt. Add some carrot and turnip cut into neat shapes, previously cooked, with a little picked parsley, or a tablespoonful of peas or beans. Or the vegetables used for flavouring the soup may be taken out when just cooked, cut into shapes, and kept for serving in the soup.

Consomme

3 lbs. of stock-meat (beef and veal).

3 quarts of cold water.

1 carrot.

2 onions.

J stick of celery.

I leek.

Bunch of herbs.

12 peppercorns.

6 cloves.

3 whites and shells of eggs. Salt.

Cut about half a pound of lean meat from the stock-meat, and keep for clarifying the soup. Chop the bones, and cut up the remainder of the meat; put this into a bright stewpan, cover with the cold water, add a little salt, and let it come slowly to the boil ; then add a cupful of cold water to bring up the scum, skim it well, then put in the vegetables, which have been cleaned but not cut up, the cloves to be stuck into the onion, and peppercorns to be tied in the bunch of herbs.

26

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

Now let the soup simmer very slowly for six or eight hours, skimming it occasionally ; then strain it gently through a soup-cloth. When it is quite cold, turn it into a bright pan, add a few slices of carrot, onion, and celery, the whites and shells of eggs whipped up in a little water. Scrape or finely chop the beef, removing all fat, and let it soak in a little water for ten minutes ; then turn it into the pan with the stock, and stir briskly over the fire until it boils. Put the lid on and stand the pan at the corner of the stove for twenty minutes, where the soup will not quite boil. Then strain it very gently through a soup-cloth. If it is not strong enough, reduce it by boiling, leaving 'Olf the lid of the pan. Season with salt, and add a small piece of white sugar.

Consomme ^ la Dauphine

I pint of consomme. I Salt.

I egg. I

Beat up a fresh egg in a basin with a little of the consomme and boil the remainder, pour it into the basin on the egg, whisking the while. Pour it back into the pan, and stir over the fire for two or three minutes, taking care it does not boil, skim, season, and serve without straining.

This is an excellent soup to use up the remains of con- somme left over from one or two dinners, for when strained from vegetables or pastes it is usually a little cloudy ; but this is not noticed with the egg floating in it.

Consomme ^ la Royale

i,^ pints of consomme. Salt.

2 fresh eggs. Nutmeg,

gill of stock.

Beat the eggs with the stock, add some salt and nutmeg, strain it into a buttered plain mould, cover with greased paper. Stand it in a steamer over boiling water until it sets quite

SOUPS

27

firmly; time, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Turn it out on to a dish, and cut it into small diamond and square pieces. Boil the consommd, pour into the tureen, and add the shapes of custard and serve.

Mutton Broth

1 lb. scrag-end of neck of mutton.

2 ozs. of barley.

I large onion.

small carrot.

^ „ turnip.

I Ippk.

2 or 3 leaves of celery.

Bunch of herbs.

I teaspoonful of chopped parsley.

3 pints of water.

Salt to taste.

Chop the mutton into small pieces, put into a saucepan with the water to come slowly to the boil. Skim it well, put in the herbs and the barley, washed, allow it to simmer for one hour, skimming the fat off frequently. Cut the vegetables into small dice and put in, let it simmer another hour and a half, then take out the herbs, season with salt, and pour into the tureen on top of the parsley.

White Vegetable Soup

^ carrot.

^ turnip.

1 onion.

2 or 3 leaves of celery. I bunch of herbs.

I oz. fat.

I tablespoonful of flour.

\ pint of stock or water.

I pint of milk.

I teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Salt.

Cut the vegetables into neat shapes, put half of the fat into a saucepan, when hot, fry the vegetables for five minutes, turn them on to a plate. Put the remainder of fat into the sauce- pan, and fry the flour without colouring for two rqinutes, then pour in the stock and part of the milk, stir over the fire until it boils. Put back the vegetables and the herbs, simmer until the vegetables are cooked, about half an hour. Take out the herbs, add more milk if too thick, season with salt, and pour into a tureen on top of the chopped parsley.

28

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY ROOK

Brown Vegetable Soup

i carrot. .5 turnip.

I oz. fat.

I tablespoonful of flour, ij pint-s of stock.

I teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Salt.

1 onion.

2 or 3 leaves of celery. I bunch of herbs.

Cut the vegetables into neat shapes, and fry in half of the fat for five minutes, turn all on to a plate, make the remainder of the fat hot, add the flour, and stir until it is of a dark-brown colour. Take it off the fire, add the stock, stirring smoothly, stir over the fire until it boils, put in the vegetables and herbs, and let it simmer until they are quite soft. Season to taste ; take out the herbs and pour into the tureen on top of the parsley. Any cooked green vegetables, as peas or beans, cut small, can be added at the last.

Leave the head in water to soak for five or six hours ; then wash it well and take out the brains. Bone the head. Cut 6 ozs. of the lean part of the veal and reserve to make the quenelles. Then chop the bones taken from the head, the veal, and the beef. Put them into a stock-pot, and place the flesh from the head on the top ; then well cover with water, add a little salt and let it slowly come to the boil. Skim it well ; add the vegetables, cleaned but not cut up, and the spices. Let all simmer very slowly for eight or nine hours. When the head is quite tender (it will take about four hours), lift it out carefully and place between two dishes to press until quite cold. Strain the stock. Melt the butter in a pan, add

Mock Turtle Soup

J calfs head.

2 lbs. shin of beef. Small knuckle of veal, ij ozs. of butter.

2I ozs. of flour.

I oz. of ham.

Large bunch of herbs. 12 peppercorns.

6 cloves.

A blade of mace.

3 onions.

I carrot.

J head of celery.

I leek.

Glass of sherry or some lemon

juice.

Salt and cayenne. Quenelles.

SOUPS

29

the ham cut into small pieces, and fry slowly for five minutes, then add the flour and stir until it is of a dark-brown colour. Take it off" the stove and add the stock by degrees ; then stir over the fire until it boils ; now put it at the corner of the stove to simmer slowly for twenty minutes ; skim and strain it. Cut the head into small square pieces and warm up in the soup j add the sherry, cayenne, and salt to taste. Turn it out into the tureen, then put in some very small quenelles, made with teaspoons, and poached for ten minutes in water. The mixture for these quenelles is made similar to veal quenelles (see page 82).

As this makes rather a large quantity of soup, and is rather expensive, it will be found more economical to make an entree of a portion of the head, and use the remainder for soup.

Oxtail

1 ox tail.

4 quarts of second stock.

2 ozs. of butter.

3 ozs. of flour.

2 onions.

I carrot.

J stick of celery.

Soup

Bunch of herbs.

12 peppercorns.

4 cloves.

A blade of mace.

Salt.

Lemon juice or a wineglassful of sherry.

Cut the tail into sections, the larger joints into three or four pieces ; wash them well, and place in a saucepan with the stock (this may be made with cooked or uncooked bones), the onions with the cloves stuck in them, the celery, carrot, herbs, and spices. Let it come to the boil, pour in a little cold water to bring up scum, skim well, and simmer slowly until the pieces of tail are quite cooked (time, about three or four hours), skimming occasionally, then strain. Pick out the pieces of tail from the vegetables. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, and stir over the fire until it is of a brown colour ; then mix in the stock smoothly, and stir until it boils, simmer slowly for a quarter of an hour, skim well, add

the pieces of tail, season to taste, add the lemon juice or sherry.

3°

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

Giblet Soup

4 sets of giblets. I oz. of fat.

1 oz. of flour.

2 onions. i carrot.

I leaf of celery. Bunch of herbs. 3 pints of water.

.Salt.

I teaspoonful of chopped parsley.

A set of giblets includes the neck, gizzard, heart, liver, and feet of a chicken, duck, or turkey; sometimes the head is used. These must be well cleaned. The gizzard must be cut through the thick part to the inner skin and the outer portion pulled off, then cut into two or more pieces, according to the size. The gall-bladder must be cut off the liver without breaking it, and the neck chopped into four or five- pieces. Wash the pieces well and drain. The feet should have the nails chopped off and boiling water poured over, when the outer skin will come off easily. The feet are not usually served, but if cooked in the soup they yield some gelatine.

Put the prepared giblets into a saucepan with the herbs, one onion, and the water, and simmer gently until quite tender. The time will vary from one to three hours. Then strain them from the liquor. Peel and slice the onions, and fry them a brown colour in the fat. Then fry the flour to a dark-brown colour, add the stock from the giblets and stir until it boils, then put back the fried onion and pieces of giblets, and let the whole simmer for twenty minutes. If liked, the carrot can be taken out when it is just cooked, and cut into neat pieces, and served in the soup. Season the soup with salt, and put in the parsley.

Peel and slice the onions, wash and slice the tomatoes, cut the celery small. Make the fat hot in a saucepan and fry the

Tomato Soup

1 lb. of tomatoes.

2 onions.

I pint of stock or water. I oz. of fat.

2 leaves of celeiy. Bunch of herbs. Salt.

Teaspoonful of vinegar.

SOUPS

31

onions, then add the tomatoes and celery. Stir over the fire for two or three minutes, add the stock and herbs, and simmer gently for about twenty minutes. When the vegetables are soft, pass the soup through a sieve. Make it hot, season with salt, and add the vinegar.

Potato Soup

1 lb. of potatoes.

2 onions.

2 or 3 leaves of white celery. Bunch of herbs.

I oz. of bacon fat.

^ pint of stock or water. 3 gills of milk.

Salt.

A little nutmeg.

Peel and slice the potatoes and onions, fry the onions in the fat without colouring for five minutes. Add the potatoes, herbs, celery, stock, and part of the milk, put the lid on and let it all simmer until the potatoes are quite soft ; take out the herbs, and pass the soup through a sieve. Put it back into the saucepan, and if too thick add more milk. Season to taste.

Milk Soup

2 ozs. of rice.

1 oz. of butter.

2 onions.

2 or 3 pieces of celery. I pint of milk.

\ pint of water. Grated nutmeg. Salt.

Crofltons of bread.

Peel and slice the onions, wash and cut the celery into small pieces, fry these in the butter without allowing them to colour. Wash the rice, and add, along with the milk and water ; let it simmer gently until the rice is quite soft, then pass all through a sieve ; add a little nutmeg, and salt to taste. Serve the crohtons either in the soup or on a separate plate.

Semolina Soup

1 quart of stock. 1 4 or 5 tomatoes.

2 tablespoonfuls of semolina. [ Salt.

Make some stock from raw or cooked bones, flavoured with vegetables, strain it, pour into a saucepan and boil.

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POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

Sprinkle in the semolina, stirring at the same time until it boils again. Rub the tomatoes through a sieve, put the pulp in the soup, then simmer gently for fifteen minutes. Season to taste.

Tapioca or sago may be used instead of semolina, the tapioca should be soaked for one hour in some cold stock or water before adding to the soup.

Spring Soup

I large lettuce.

12 spring onions.

I oz. of butter.

I pint of milk.

I pint of stock or water.

Dessertspoonful of cornflour Parsley.

Salt.

Nutmeg.

Croutons of bread.

Wash the lettuce and onions, shred the lettuce and slice the onions thinly. Melt the butter in a saucepan, and fry the lettuce and onions for about five minutes ; add the stock and part of the milk, and let it simmer gently for ten minutes. Mix the cornflour with the remainder of milk, pour into the soup and stir until it boils, simmer for another ten minutes ; season to taste with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg. Cut some crust of bread into thin strips, and dry quite crisp in the oven j put them into the tureen with parsley picked small, and pour the soup over.

Watercress, endive, or sorrel may be used either along with or in place of the lettuce for a change.

Hollandaise Soup

2 ozs. of barley.

I pint of white stock . J pint of milk.

J gill of cream.

2 tablespoonfuls of shredded sorrel .

3 yolks of eggs.

Salt and grated nutmeg.

Wash the barley and place in a saucepan with the stock, and simmer slowly until it is quite cooked, about one hour. Wash and shred the sorrel, add with the milk to the barley ; cook it gently for ten minutes. Beat up the yolks with the cream in a basin, pour the boiling soup into the mixture.

SOUPS

33

stirring at the same time ; add seasonings, turn it back into the saucepan, and stir over the fire for two or three minutes. The soup must not boil again, or it will curdle. Serve with small fried crofitons of bread.

Soup Bonne Femme

Handful each of sorrel, lettuce, and watercress.

3 or 4 spring onions.

Parsley.

J oz. of butter, ij pints of stock.

1 gill of cream or milk.

2 yolks of eggs.

Salt.

Small piece of sugar. Croutons of bread.

Wash and shred the lettuce and sorrel, pick the leaves off the watercress, and fry them with the butter in a saucepan for five minutes. Tie the onions and parsley together, and put in with the fried mixture. Add the stock, sugar, and salt. Let it simmer for twenty minutes ; then take out the onions. Beat the yolks and the cream or milk together in a basin •, add the soup, stirring at the same time. Pour back into the saucepan, and place on the stove for about five minutes, then season to taste, and pour it into the tureen. Cut some pale crusts of bread into small neat shapes, and dry them quite crisp in a slack oven, and serve in the soup.

Palestine

1 lb. of Jerusalem artichokes.

2 onions.

J stick of celery.

I oz. of butter.

4 pint of stock.

Soup

3 gills of milk.

I gill of cream. Salt.

Lemon juice. Croutons of bread.

Wash, peel, and slice the artichokes. Peel and slice the onions, wash, and cut the celery into small pieces. Melt the butter in a saucepan ; fry the onions and celery for five minutes without colouring them. Add the artichokes, and stir over the fire for two minutes, pour in the stock and milk, let it boil, then simmer gently until the artichokes are quite soft. Pass the soup through a fine sieve, pour back into the saucepan, and reheat ; add the cream and the seasonings to taste. Serve with small crofitons of bread, fried to a pale colour.

D

34

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

Cressy

4 or 5 large carrots.

2 onions.

3 pieces of celery.

1 oz. of butter.

2 ozs. of bacon.

Soup

I quart of stock.

I teaspoonful of castor sugar. h gill of cream.

Salt.

Croutons of bread.

Wash and scrape the outsides of the carrots ; then grate the carrots, or chop finely. Wash and cut the celery and onions. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the onions and the bacon cut small and fry for about five minutes, then add the carrots, celery, and stock. When it boils, stand at the corner of the stove to simmer gently until the carrot is quite soft. Pass all through a sieve, pour back into the saucepan, add the cream, sugar, and salt. Serve with fried croutons of bread.

Vegetable Marrow Soup

1 large marrow.

2 onions.

2 or 3 leaves of celery. I bunch of herbs.

I quart of stock or water.

I oz. of butter or dripping. I oz. of scraps of bacon. Salt and pepper.

Make the butter hot in a saucepan, add the onions and bacon, fry for five minutes, add the marrow (an old one can be used) cut into small pieces, and the celery ; stir over the stove for five minutes. Then put in the stock and herbs, boil gently until the marrow is tender, then pass through a sieve. Put it back into the saucepan, and if too thick add more stock; season to taste, and serve with some small pieces of bread either fried crisp or dried in the oven.

Mulligatawny Soup

3 onions.

2 apples.

^ carrot.

J lb. of lean ham or bacon. I oz. of butter.

I oz. of flour.

5 oz. of curry powder. Dessertspoonful of chutney. I quart of stock. Teaspoonful of lemon juice. A little chicken or rahbit. Salt.

Make the fat hot in a saucepan, chop the onions, and fry to a brown colour, turn them on to a plate. Cut the ham and

SOUPS

35

the apples into small pieces, and fry for a few minutes. Return the onions, add the flour, chutney, curry powder, and carrot scraped small, and stir over the fire for a few minutes, add the stock and stir until it boils, let it simmer gently for about half an hour, then pass all through a sieve. Put back into tbe saucepan and warm again, add salt to taste and the lemon juice. It is a great improvement if two or three tablespoonfuls of cream are now added. Put in about two tablespoonfuls of cooked chicken or rabbit cut into small pieces. If chicken or rabbit is not available, beef can be used. Serve some boiled rice either separately or in the soup.

Potage k la

I lettuce.

^ pint of green peas.

Sprig of mint.

4 spring onions.

Handful of spinach.

I oz. of butter.

St, Germain

i.^ pints of stock.

2 yolks of eggs.

2 tablespoonfuls of cream.

teaspoonful of sugar. Salt.

Crofltons of bread.

Old peas may be used for this soup. If dried peas be used they must be soaked with a pinch of soda in some cold water for twenty-four hours. Cut eight leaves of the lettuce into shreds, and reserve to put into the soup at the finish. Make the butter hot in a stewpan, add the remainder of the lettuce and the onions cut up, the peas, mint, and sugar, stir over the fire for four or five minutes ; add the stock, and boil gently until the peas are quite soft. Pass the soup through a hair sieve or tammy cloth, and return to the stewpan. Wash and drain the spinach, pound it and wring through the tammy, add sufficient of this to the soup to turn it a deep green colour. Beat up the yolks and cream in a basin, pour into the boiling soup, stirring at the same time. Return to the pan, but do not let it boil again. Blanch the shredded lettuce in some water, and add to the soup with a tablespoonful of peas. Turn into a tureen, with two tablespoonfuls of bread cut the same size as the lettuce and fried.

36

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

Green Pea Soup

I pint of peas.

I quart of stock.

6 spring onions. Small bunch of mint.

Bunch of parsley.

I oz. of butter.

A large handful of spinach.

Salt.

Wash the peas, parsley, and mint. Skin and wash the onions. Add a teaspoonful of salt to the stock, in v/hich boil gently the peas, mint, parsley, and onions, until the peas are quite soft ; about five minutes before they are cooked add the spinach. Pass all through a hair sieve, then bring to the boil again ; season to taste. If a little cream be added just before serving it is a great improvement. The spinach is added to give a deeper green colour to the soup.

Break the bones into small pieces, put them into a sauce- pan, add the water, herbs, and a little salt. The peas must be washed and left to soak in water for twelve hours previously ; then strain them and put in with the bones, allow it to simmer gently from three to four hours, skimming occasionally. Two hours before the soup is finished, add the vegetables ; they should be cleaned and cut into small pieces. When cooked, lift out the bones and herbs, season to taste with salt, and add the mint.

The soup can be passed through a sieve if liked smooth.

Liquor in which beef or mutton has been cooked can be substituted for the bones and water.

Pea Soup

J pint of split peas.

A few fresh or cooked bones. 2 quarts of cold water.

I carrot.

I turnip.

3 leaves of celery.

2 onions.

Bunch of herbs. Dessertspoonful of mint.

Salt.

SOUPS

37

Lentil Soup

J pint of pink lentils. I oz. of fat.

J carrot.

1 leek.

2 onions.

2 leaves of celery.

I bunch of herbs.

I quart of stock or water. I teaspoonful of mint.

Peel and slice the onions, cut the celery, carrot, and leek into small pieces, wash the lentils. Fry the onions in a sauce- pan with the fat, add the lentils and the other vegetables, the herbs, and the water or stock. Cook slowly until the lentils and carrot are quite soft. Take out the herbs and pass the soup through a sieve or colander. Warm it ; add the mint and salt.

Fish Soup

ij lbs. of skate or flounders.

2 onions.

3 or 4 pieces of celery.

I carrot.

I teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Bunch of herbs.

I tablespoonful of flour.

1 oz. of butter.

6 peppercorns.

A little grated nutmeg.

2 quarts of water.

J pint of milk.

Salt.

Wash the fish and cut into small pieces, place in a saucepan with the water, peppercorns, and a little salt and bring to the boil. Wash the vegetables and add with the herbs (reserve some of the red part of the carrot, cut into neat pieces, cooked, for serving in the soup) ; let the whole simmer slowly for two or three hours, skimming frequently ; then strain through a fine sieve. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, and stir over the fire for two minutes without allowing it to colour, add the stock and milk, stirring till smooth ; then stir over the fire until it boils, simmer for a few minutes, season with salt and nutmeg, add the cooked carrot, and pour into the tureen on top of the parsley.

A little of the fish could be taken out when it is cooked, freed from bone, and added to the soup when finished.

LiilVlRSin

UflRAHY

LEEDS

38

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

CHAPTER IV

FISH

Fish to be wholesome must be quite fresh. When fresh and in season the flesh is firm and springy to the touch, weighty for its size, eyes full and bright, and the gills red. Plenty of scales on scaly fish usually indicates freshness. The spots or marks on such fish as plaice and mackerel should be well pronounced, but one of the best tests is the smell.

■ Fish, though not quite so nutritious or so stimulating as butcher’s meat, is an excellent article of diet, as it is light and easy of digestion, and well suited to delicate persons and those following sedentary occupations, who generally do not take sufficient exercise in the fresh air.

Fish contains a fair proportion of flesh-forming and mineral matter, and the white kinds very little fat, hence their value in a sick diet. A few fishes are rich in fat, as salmon, mackerel, eels, and herring ; they are more satisfying as a meal, but usually more difficult to digest, except the latter, which is fairly easy to digest, and, being very cheap, forms an economical food.

The digestibility will vary also with the quality of the fish and the methods of cooking. Whiting, soles, and plaice are among those easiest to digest, and if for an invalid should be steamed or boiled.

White fish when boiled is improved by being rubbed over with a cut lemon, or by adding a little vinegar to the water in which it is cooked to keep it white and firm. The fish should be put into hot, not boiling, water, otherwise the higher tempera- ture contracts the skin too quickly, and it breaks and looks unsightly.

Salt fish may be placed in cold water, and then boiled to extract some of the salt ; if the fish has been salted and dried, it is better to soak it in cold water for about twelve hours before cooking.

To steam fish : where a proper fish steamer is not available, tie it loosely in a piece of muslin, and stand it on an inverted

FISH

39

basin in a saucepan containing boiling water reaching a third way up the hasin ; the muslin enables one to lift the fish out with- out breaking it. Another more savoury method of steaming fish is to place it in a dish or tin with a tablespoonful of water, and seasonings, cover with greased paper and cook in the oven ; this method is suitable for fillets and small pieces of fish.

Fish to be fried should be cooked in sufficient fat to well cover it, after having been dried and covered with batter, or egg and bread crumbs.

Filleted and Fried Plaice

I plaice. Flour.

Egg and bread crumbs. Frying fat.

Wash the fish well. Cut it down on the backbone, then cut down by the depth of the bone ; now raise the fish from the bones with the point of the knife, taking care not to tear the fillet. Place the fillet on the board with the skin side down- wards, cut through the fish to the skin by the tail end, then pass the knife to and fro, pulling the skin towards you, so that the knife passes between the skin and the fillet. Take the other fillets off in the same manner ; if large, cut each fillet into two or three pieces.

Lay two or three pieces on a cloth, sprinkle a little flour over them, cover the fish with the cloth, hold the two ends, one in each hand, and shake to and fro to dry the fish. Brush each piece all over with well-beaten egg, and cover with bread crumbs. Shake off any loose crumbs. Have sufficient fat in a saucepan to well cover the fillets, and make it quite hot. Put in one or two pieces of the fish according to the quantity of fat, and fry them to a brown colour, from two to four minutes, according to the thickness of the pieces. Then drain them well, and put them on a wire drainer to keep warm while the remainder are being cooked. When ready to serve, dish them, tilted one against the other, on a serviette or paper, and garnish with parsley. Serve with either plain melted hutter or anchovy sauce.

The bones and skins from the fish should be put into a

I

40

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

• 1

small saucepan and covered with cold water, to which a little salt has been added. Simmer gently for half an hour. Then strain and use to make a sauce to serve with the fish.

Orlys of Soles

I sole.

I small onion.

^ small carrot.

Parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf.

Juice of i a lemon. Frying batter. Frying fat.

Skin and fillet the sole, cut the fillets into two pieces and lay them in a basin. Cut the carrot and onion into thin slices and put between the fish with the herbs ; squeeze the lemon juice over and let them stand at least one hour, turn the fillets over occasionally. Have some frying fat very hot in a pan. Shake the fish free from the vegetables, dip two or three pieces in the batter, then drop them into the fat, fry for about three minutes, drain them, dish them on a serviette and garnish with fried parsley. Serve with Tartare sauce.

Fillets of Soles

2 soles.

I large whiting.

1 small lobster and spawn.

2 ozs. of butter.

ozs. of flour.

1 gill of milk.

2 gills of fish stock.

J gill of cream.

h. la Dauphine

6 button mushrooms.

I shallot finely chopped.

I teaspoonful of chopped parsley. I egg.

Anchovy' essence.

Cayenne, pepper, and salt. Lemon juice.

Skin and bone the whiting. Fillet the soles; place the skins and bones in a saucepan with a pint of water and a pinch of salt to make the stock, simmer gently. Pound the fish from the whiting. Cook half an ounce of butter with one ounce of flour in a stewpan for two minutes, add half a gill of milk, and stir until it boils, let it cool, then add it to the fish in the mortar with the egg, pepper, and salt, mix well together and pass it through a sieve; cut the mushrooms into dice, and add with the shallot and parsley to the fish. Cover half of a fillet of sole with this mixture, fold the other part over neatly, stuff the remainder of the fillets and place them in a shallow tin, sprinkle a little lemon juice, pepper, and salt on each one, add a table- spoonful of the fish stock, cover with buttered paper, and cook

FISH

41

in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. Make a white sauce with the remainder of the butter, flour, and half a pint of fish stock, pass the spawn through a hair sieve with a little butter, add to the sauce, and stir over the fire until it turns a red colour; then add the cream, a teaspoonful of anchovy essence, a little lemon juice, cayenne, and salt. Cut the meat from the lobster into large dice, place in a stewpan with a little of the sauce to warm. Dish up the fillets of soles in a circle, stick a piece of a leg of lobster in the thin end of each one, place the lobster meat in the centre, and ladle the sauce over the fillets.

Fillets of Soles a la Maitre d^Hotel

I sole.

I oz. of butter.

I oz. of flour, gill of fish essence.

^ gill of milk.

I teaspoonful of chopped parsley. I teaspoonful of lemon juice.

Salt and pepper.

Wash, skin, and fillet the sole : roll or twist the fillets, the skinned side inwards, or they will unroll while cooking. Place them in a small tin, sprinkle pepper, salt, and lemon juice over, pour two tablespoonfuls of water in the tin, and cover with buttered paper. Cook in a moderately hot oven from ten to fifteen minutes; then dish them up in a circle. Make some white sauce, mix in the lemon juice, parsley, pepper, and salt, and pour over the fillets.

Fillets of Soles with Matelotte Sauce

2 medium-sized soles. I large whiting.

ozs. of butter.

2^ ozs. of flour. i pint of fish liquor.

I gill of milk.

12 button mushrooms.

6 or 9 oysters.

Salt and pepper.

Cream and lemon juice. I egg.

Make a panada with half an ounce of butter, one and a half ounces of flour, and gill of milk ; let it get quite cold. Bone and skin the whiting and pound it well, add the panada, the yolk of egg, pepper, and salt, and pass it through a wire sieve. Then put it into a basin, add the white of egg whipped stiffly and about one tablespoonful of cream. Skin and fillet

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POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

the soles, spread some of the pur^e of fish on half of each one, and fold the other part of the fillet over. Lay them upon a tin, sprinkle a little pepper, salt, and lemon juice over each, add a tablespoonful of water, and cover with buttered paper ; steam them in the oven for ten or fifteen minutes. Make the remainder of the puree into small quenelles with teaspoons, and poach them for seven minutes. Cook the mushrooms for five minutes in a little butter and a squeeze of lemon. Beard the oysters, and put them into a saucepan with their liquor, and just warm them, then strain and cut each one into two or three pieces. Make a white sauce with the remainder of the butter, flour, the fish liquor (made from the bones and skins of the fish), and the oyster liquor ; then add a little cream and lemon juice. Put the quenelles, mushrooms, and oysters with a little of the sauce in a pan to warm through. Dish up the fillets in a circle, the ends pointing to the centre. Warm the sauce, place the oyster mixture in the middle.

Sole au Gratm

I sole.

I oz. of butter.

I oz. of flour.

gills of strong stock.

I chopped shallot.

I tablespoonful of chopped mush- room.

I teaspoonful of chopped parsley. I teaspoonful of anchovy essence.

1 tablespoonful of bread crumbs.

2 tablespoonfuls of white wine. Cayenne.

Salt and pepper.

Wash and trim the sole, lay it on a buttered gratin-dish, pour the wine over or a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Fry the shallot and flour with the butter until of a brown colour, add the stock and stir until it boils, take it off the fire, add the seasonings and mushroom. Cover the sole with the sauce, sprinkle the parsley over, then the bread crumbs, place small pieces of butter on the top, and bake it in rather a hot oven to a brown colour ; time required, from twenty to thirty minutes.

Sole a la Colbert

Sole. I

Maitre d’ll&tel butter. | Flour.

Take a sole about three-quarters of a pound by weight,

wash and skin it, cut off the fins and tail. Cut down on the

FISH

43

backbone and raise the fillets from the bone without cutting through the ends at the head or tail, break the backbone about an inch from the head and from the tail. Dry the fish, brush over with a little milk, and dredge with flour. Fry it for four or five minutes in some very hot fat, then drain it well, lay it on a hot dish and pull out the backbone without breaking the fish, place some Maitre d’ Hotel butter in the cavity and serve.

Fillets of Turbot a la Venitienne

I to lbs. of thick part of turbot. Pepper and salt.

f oz. of butter. Venitienne sauce.

Lemon juice.

Fillet the turbot, and cut the fillets into pieces slantways as nearly as possible of the same size. Lay the pieces in a saute- pan or a deep tin, sprinkle pepper, salt, and lemon juice over each piece, cover with buttered paper; put a tablespoonful of water into the tin and place in a moderately hot oven to steam for about fifteen minutes. Take the skin off the fish and dish it up in a circle. Pour the liquor from the tin into half a pint of Venitienne sauce (p. 120) that has been made with the liquor, from the fish-bones and fins, milk, and a little cream. Cover the fillets with the sauce and serve.

Oyster Souffle

12 oysters.

I large whiting.

I oz. of butter. li ozs. of flour.

I gill of oyster liquor and milk.

2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of cream. 2 yolks and 3 whites of eggs. Salt, pepper, and cayenne. Anchovy essence.

Put the oysters with their liquor into a saucepan and warm through, but do not boil ; strain and beard them. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and stir on the stove for a minute or two, add the oyster liquor and milk, then stir over the fire until it boils, turn it out to get cold. Fillet and skin the whiting, pound the fillets well in a mortar, add the above mixture and the yolks of eggs. Pass it through a wire sieve, then put it into a basin, add about a dessertspoonful of anchovy essence and the other seasonings, mix thoroughly ;

44

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

add the cream and stir in the whites of eggs that have been whipped up stiffly. Test a small quantity to ascertain if the consistency and seasonings are correct. To do this, roll a small portion in a little flour and put it into a saucepan containing some boiling water. Let it stand in the water for five minutes, then taste ; if too stiff add a little more cream or milk Cut the oysters, if large, into two or three pieces, and stir lightly into the mixture. Put it into a well-buttered mould, cover with buttered paper, and steam for three-quarters of an hour. Turn out on to a hot dish and pour over it the following sauce : —

Smue for Souffle

I oz. of butter. Cream.

I oz. of flour. Pepper and salt.

I gill of fish liquor. Lemon juice.

I gill of milk.

Melt the butter, cook the flour in it for two minutes, but do not let it colour. Add the fish liquor (made from the bones, skin of whitings, and oyster beards) and the milk. Stir over the fire until it boils, then add the cream, seasonings, and lastly the lemon juice. The sauce must not boil after the lemon juice has been added, as it will curdle.

Lobster Souffles

I lobster (8 ozs. lobster without shell).

1 oz. of butter.

2 ozs. of flour.

I gill of lobster essence.

Anchovy essence.

Spawn.

2 yolks and 3 whites of eggs. 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. Cayenne, and lemon juice. Salt.

J pint of white sauce.

Make a panada with butter, flour, and lobster liquor (the latter should be made from the lobster shell and legs), and let it get cold. Pound the lobster well, add the panada, the yolks, and a little anchovy essence, then pass it all through a wire sieve. Put it into a basin, mix in the salt, cayenne, cream, and a little lemon juice, lastly, the whites of eggs whipped stiffly. Test a little, then put it into some well- buttered moulds and steam for half an hour. Turn them out

and pour the sauce over. Make the white sauce with some

FISH

45

fish or lobster liquor. Pass the spawn through a hair sieve with a little butter, stir it into the hot sauce until it turns a bright-red colour, and use. The souffld can be cooked in one mould if preferred, and steamed for one hour and a quarter.

Lobster Cutlets

1 medium-sized lobster or a tin of lobster.

I J ozs. of butter.

2 ozs. of flour.

I gill of lobster liquor.

J gill of milk.

2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of cream. 2 yolks of eggs.

Cayenne, pepper, and salt. Lobster spawn.

Egg and bread crumbs.

Separate all the fish from the shell of the lobster, break the latter small and put into a saucepan with the legs, cover with cold water, add a little salt, a small onion, and some parsley. Stew it gently for half an hour, then strain it. Cut the lobster into small dice. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and stir over the fire for two minutes without allowing it to colour; then take it off the fire, pour in the liquor from the shell and the milk, stirring it smoothly. Stir over the fire until it boils and thickens, now drop . in the yolks and the spawn which has been passed through a sieve, and stir briskly for two minutes ; then take it off the fire, add the cream and the seasonings to taste. Mix in the lobster and turn it out on to a dish to get cold. Divide it into equal portions and press them, with two knives, into cutlet shapes, using some bread crumbs to prevent them from sticking to the knives. Brush them all over well with beaten egg and cover them with bread crumbs. Shake any loose crumbs off, and fry them till of a golden colour in some very hot frying fat. Drain them, and stick some stalks of parsley or the legs of the lobster into the thin ends to represent the bones. Dish them up in a circle on a serviette or paper, and garnish with fried parsley. A good white sauce may be served separately in a sauce-boat.

If a tinned lobster be used, more milk will be required to make the mixture.

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POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

Scallops of Lobster

Small lobster and spawn, li ozs. of butter.

I oz. of flour.

I gill of lobster liquor.

J gill of milk.

I tablespoonful of cream.

I yolk of egg. Anchovy essence. Cayenne and salt. Mace.

Rusk crumbs.

Make a sauce with one ounce of butter, the flour, and the liquor made from the lobster shell, and milk ; while boiling add the yolk, and spawn that has been passed through a sieve ; take it off the fire, add the cream, anchovy, and seasonings. Cut the meat from the lobster into large dice, stir it gently in the sauce. Butter some scallop shells, fill with the lobster, sprinkle rusk or fried crumbs over, and place pieces of butter on the tops and place in a hot oven for eight or ten minutes ; dish them up on a serviette and garnish round with parsley.

Croustads of Curried Shrimps

6 ozs. of rice.

2 ozs. of fat bacon. Water and salt.

I pint of shrimps.

I oz. of butter.

I large onion.

I small apple.

I dessertspoonful of flour, ij teaspoonfuls of curry powder.

I teaspoonful of chutney.

Lemon juice and salt.

I I gills of stock.

Wash the rice and place it in a stewpan with the bacon cut into slices, add some salt and water to cover. Cook it slowly until the rice is quite soft and rather dry ; more water may have to be added while it is cooking. Then take out the bacon, and press a layer of rice over the insides of some greased timbal moulds, about a third of an inch in thickness. Warm them through in the oven, then fill with the curry. For the curry, peel and slice the onion, and fry in the butter, keeping it a pale colour, add the apple chopped, the flour, curry, and chutney ; stir over the fire for one minute, then mix in the stock ; stir over the fire until it boils, then simmer slowly until the onion is quite soft ; press the curry through a wire sieve, turn it back into the stewpan, add a little lemon juice. Wash and pick the shrimps, place them in the curry on the corner of the stove for ten minutes, add a little salt, if neces- sary. Fill the croustads with the curry, and stick the head of

FISH

47

a shrimp in the top of each croustad. Dish them up on a 5 serviette or paper. A tablespoonful of cream, added to the r curry after the shrimps are heated, is a great improvement.

Water Souche

6 dabs.

J pint of water. J a carrot.

I onion.

I teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Salt and pepper.

Lemon juice.

Wash and clean the fish, put it into a saucepan, and cover j with the water, add the onion peeled and cut into halves, the i red part of the carrot cut into very thin stripes, about one and a half inches in length. Simmer gently until the fish is quite i cooked, about twenty minutes, then add salt, pepper, and a i little lemon juice. Put in the chopped parsley. Serve in a I soup tureen, taking care not to break the fish.

Grilled Haddock and Maitre d^Hotel Butter

I fresh haddock.

^ oz. of butter.

J teaspoonful of chopped parsley. J teaspoonful of lemon juice.

Pepper and salt.

Grated nutmeg.

I tablespoonful of salad oil.

Wash and trim the haddock, cut off the head. Cut it down by the backbone, then cut under the bone and remove it. Lay the fish open on a dish and pour the oil all over it, or some melted fat can be used if preferred. Grill the fish on both sides to a light-brown colour for about ten minutes, lift it carefully on to a dish without breaking it. Mix the butter on a plate with the pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg, add the lemon juice gradually, lastly stir in the parsley. Spread this all over the haddock and serve.

Fillets of Fresh Haddock k Flndienne

I large fre.sb haddock. gills of fish liquor.

I oz. of butler. i tablespoonful of mustard pickles.

I oz. of flour.

Fillet the haddock and skin the fillets, cut each one into two pieces ; place them on a tin, sprinkle a little pepper, salt,

48

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

and lemon juice on each piece, add one tablespoonful of water, cover with greased paper and cook in the oven for about ten minutes, then dish them up in a circle. Make a brown sauce with the butter, flour, and fish liquor, add salt to taste, the pickles chopped finely, and a little of the mustard liquor. Pour the sauce over the fish and serve.

The fish liquor is prepared by placing the bones and skins in a saucepan, covering them with water, and adding a pinch of salt, and allowing it to simmer for half an hour, then straining.

Stuffed and Baked Haddock

I fresh haddock.

I oz. of chopped suet, ij ozs. of bread crumbs.

J teaspoonful of chopped parsley. I teaspoonful of mixed herbs. Grated rind of ^ a lemon.

Pepper and salt.

I egg.

Milk.

I oz. dripping.

I tablespoonful of crumbs for the outside.

I oz. of butter.

J oz. of flour.

Cayenne, and anchovy essence.

Wash and trim the haddock, score the skin on both sides. Mix the bread crumbs with the suet, herbs, pepper, salt, and lemon, bind the mixture together with the beaten egg, and if necessary use a little milk. Roll the stuffing into a bolster shape and place inside the fish, secure the skin of the fish over the stuffing with a skewer or a trussing-needle and string. Fasten the fish into the shape of the letter S with string. Melt the dripping and pour on the haddock, then sprinkle some bread crumbs over. Place the fish on a tin, and put some pieces of dripping on the top of it, pour two tablespoonfuls of water into the tin. Bake in rather a hot oven for about half an hour, letting it get a brown colour, then dish it up on a flat dish and take out the string. Put the butter and flour into the tin and stir over the fire until it turns brown, add one and a half gills of water and stir until it boils, season to taste with anchovy essence and cayenne, strain and pour it round the fish.

FISH

49

Boiled Dried Haddock

I dried haddock.

^ leaspoonful of chopped parsley.

J oz. of butter. Pepper.

Cut the haddock into pieces, of convenient size to serve, put them into a frying-pan and barely cover with hot water, cover the pan over with a dish or tin and simmer for about ten minutes, a little longer if the fish is very thick. Drain them and place on a dish. Press the butter, parsley, and pepper together and spread over the haddock.

If preferred the haddock can be skinned first if placed into boiling water for five minutes the, skin can be pulled off easily.

Free the fish from bones, skin and break into flakes. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and stir for two minutes over the fire without allowing it to colour ; take it off the fire and pour in the milk a little at a time, stirring smoothly, then stir over the fire until it boils ; season it with pepper and salt. Place a layer of the fish on the bottom of a pie-dish, sprinkle some lemon rind over, slice the eggs thinly, and put some over the fish, then ladle some sauce over, continue putting layers until all the fish and sauce are used. Well mash the potatoes ; season with butter, milk, pepper, and salt, and spread evenly over the top of the dish ; brush all over with a little beaten egg, and put some pieces of fat on the top. Bake to a brown colour in a hot oven for about twenty minutes. Serve garnished with parsley.

This dish may be made with any kind of fish. The eggs can be left out if preferred, and chopped parsley or nutmeg can be used instead of lemon.

This is a very good way of using up the remains of boiled salt fish.

Fish Pie

§ lb. of cooked fish.

I lb. of mashed potatoes. J oz. of butter, i oz. of flour.

I gill of milk.

I or 2 hard-boiled eggs.

Pepper, salt, and grated lemon

rind.

£

5°

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

Fried Sprats in Egg and Bread Crumbs

I lb. of large sprats, I Frying fat.

Egg and bread crumbs. |

Cut off the tails and fins, break off the heads, and pull out the guts. Wash them quickly, handling them as little as possible, lay them upon a cloth to drain. Shake a few at a time in a cloth with some flour, brush them over with beaten egg and cover them with crumbs. Shake any loose crumbs off, and fry them a golden colour in some hot fat for about five minutes. Dish them on a serviette, and garnish with parsley.

A mustard sauce may be served.

Fried Sprats

1 lb. of sprats. | Frying fat.

2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of flour. |

Clean the fish as in the preceding recipe. Just before putting them into the fat, shake them in plenty of flour. Fry them quickly to a brown colour ; drain them well. Dish up and garnish with parsley.

It is easier when frying these to use a frying basket.

Soused Sprats

I lb. of sprats.

I onion.

Parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf. 12 peppercorns.

Salt.

I gill of vinegar. J gill of water.

Clean the sprats. Lay them evenly in rows in a pie-dish, sprinkling them with salt and placing the onion, sliced thinly, between them. Lay the parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf down by the side of the sprats. Put in the peppercorns, and pour the vinegar and water over, sufficient to just cover the sprats. Place a dish or tin over the pie-dish, and bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes. Take off the cover and pick out the herbs. Stand the pie-dish on a flat dish and garnish with parsley. Serve hot or cold.

FISH

51

Sprats Fried in Batter

I lb. of large sprats. Frying batter (page 179).

Frying fat.

Clean the sprats, lay them on a cloth to dry. Have some i frying fat very hot. Dip six or seven sprats into the batter and I drop them into the fat. Fry them to a brown colour for three j or four minutes. Drain them, and dish them on a serviette or ; paper; garnish with parsley and quarters of lemon.

Filleted Herrings a la Sefton

j 4 fresh herrings.

I 3 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs,

i I tablespoonful of grated Parme-

j san cheese.

' Wash the fish and fillet them ; take olf the skins. Mix the : bread crumbs, cayenne, and cheese together. Brush the fillets i over with the egg, well beaten, and cover them with the crumbs. Fry them in hot fat for two or three minutes. Cut the toast about the same size as the fillets. Lay the latter on the toast, dish up and garnish with parsley.

Cayenne.

Egg.

Toasted bread.

Boned and Stuffed Herrings

3 fresh herrings.

3 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs. I teaspoonful of chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of mixed herbs.

Pepper and salt.

Water.

I oz. of dripping.

Bread crumbs for the outsides.

Wash the herrings, scrape off the scales, cut off the fins and the heads ; cut the fish down by the backbone, and take out all the bones and the guts and wipe the insides. Mix the crumbs, herbs, pepper, and salt together and moisten with a little water, lay this in equal quantities on each of the herrings, and roll ! them up from the tail-ends. Melt the dripping and pour over,

I then sprinkle some crumbs on the tops. Place them on a tin i with two tablespoonfuls of water. Bake in rather a hot oven to make them a nice brown colour. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes. Dish them up and garnish with parsley.

Mackerel may be prepared and cooked in a similar manner.

52

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

Soused Herrings

4 or 6 fresh herrings.

I onion.

1 2 peppercorns, blade of mace.

Parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf. I gill of vinegar.

J gill of water.

Salt.

Cut off the tails, fins, and the heads from the fish, take out the guts and scrape off the scales. Score the sides with a sharp knife ; lay two on the bottom of a pie-dish ; peel and slice the onion thinly, put some over the fish with the peppercorns and mace, sprinkle some salt and the herbs over this. Place another layer of fish and the remainder of the onion on the top. Cover the dish, and bake from twenty minutes to half an hour. Let it get quite cold, then lift the fish out on to a flat dish and strain some of the liquor over. Garnish with parsley.

Mackerel can be soused in the same way. The remains of boiled salmon or mackerel can be soused. Cut the remains of the fish neatly and place in a pie-dish. Boil the other ingredients, except the water, in the vinegar for five minutes, then pour it over the fish. Let the whole remain for two or three hours, turning the fish over once or twice in the vinegar. Serve similar to soused herrings.

Free the fish from skin and bones ; break into small flakes, and put into a basin. Well mash the potatoes, chop the egg finely, add these to the fish, also the butter, melted. Put in the seasonings and mix well. Divide the mixture into seven equal- sized portions, flatten them into cakes, with two knives, making them about one inch in depth. Brush them all over with beaten egg, and cover them with bread crumbs; shake any loose crumbs off, and fry to a brown colour for two or three minutes in some hot fat. Drain them well, and dish them up, one tilted on the other in a circle on a serviette or paper. Garnish with parsley.

Fish Cakes

6 ozs. of cooked fish.

8 ozs. of mashed potatoes.

I hard-boiled egg.

1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley.

2 teaspoonfuls of anchovy essence.

I oz. of butter or dripping. Pepper and salt.

Egg and bread crumbs. Frying fat.

FISH

53

Different proportions of fish and potatoes may be used. Boiled rice may be substituted for potatoes, if liked.

Fish Pudding

6 ozs. of cooked fish.

3 ozs. of rice.

3

I gill of fish liquor and milk.

I teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Pepper and salt.

Grated lemon rind.

J pint of white sauce.

Free the fish from skin and bones, and break it into flakes. Boil one egg hard and cut into thin slices ; butter a basin or plain mould and stick the slices of egg on it, sprinkle some parsley over. Mix well together the fish, rice, pepper, salt and the grated rind of half a lemon, and fill the basin with it. Beat the two eggs well in some of the liquor, boil the remainder and pour on to the eggs, stirring well at the same time ; then pour it over the fish, cover the basin with a greased paper, and steam until it sets ; time, about half an hour. Turn it out on to a hot dish and pour some white sauce around.

Russian Fish Pie

^ lb. of cooked fish.

2 ozs. of rice.

2 ozs. of butter.

J teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Granted rind of J a lemon.

Salt and pepper.

6 ozs. of flour.

3 ozs. of dripping.

J teaspoonful of baking powder. Water.

Free the fish from skin and bones, and break into small flakes ; there should be half a pound of fish without the bones. Boil the rice, put it into a basin with the butter, fish, and the seasonings ; mix well with a fork. Make a stiff short paste with the flour, dripping, powder, salt, and water, roll it out in a round piece, and cut out with a dinner plate. Place the fish mixture upon it, wet the edge of the paste and join it together over the top of the fish, brush it with beaten egg, and decorate the top with strips of paste made from the trimmings. Bake in rather a hot oven to a rich brown colour for about twenty-five minutes. Serve hot, garnished with parsley.

54

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

CHAPTER V

NOTES ON MEAT

Soon after an animal has been killed, rigor mortis sets in, which lasts for a varying number of days. During this period, ^

meat, if cooked, is usually very tough, and not of such a good !

flavour; it is customary to let it hang until this toughness \

passes off. During this stage, an acid forms in the meat which ^

acts upon the hardening matter, re-dissolves it, renders the i

meat tender and juicy, and also improves the flavour. For a similar reason, tough inferior meat for stewing is often soaked in a little vinegar before cooking. This aids in loosening the ^ fibres of the meat.

During hot, close, muggy weather, meat often decomposes before these changes can be properly produced, unless special care be taken. Some butchers have cool chambers in which to keep the meat in very hot weather, otherwise it is often necessary to have tough meat in order to have it wholesome in the summer-time. If there be any suspicion of taint about the meat, a knife or skewer should be plunged in near the bone and left for a few seconds, then draw it out and smell, and if there be only a slight smell, take out the bone or wash the meat in vinegar and water, or in water with some permanganate of potash (Condy’s Fluid). Raw meat should be hung up in the larder in a draught, and not left on a dish ; sprinkling with pepper in hot weather will prevent flies from settling on it

To Choose Beef. — The lean should be of a rich red colour.

If of a pale colour, then it has probably been from a poorly nourished animal, while, on the other hand, if of a very dark colour, then the animal was not in good condition when killed.

The fibres should not be coarse ; the flesh should be juicy, but not to exude moisture ; it should also be firm and springy to the touch. The consistency is a good test of its quality.

NOTES ON MEAT

55

f The fat should be of a creamy colour ; when the animal has l! been fed upon oil cakes, the fat may be of a deep yellow : colour. The best beef has quite a mottled appearance with fat, little odour, and that not unpleasant.

A full-grown animal is richer in extractives than a young i animal. The extractives are the chief flavouring matters in I meat, of no actual value as food, but the sapid properties of i extractives make the meat more stimulating, and thus they aid L digestion. Beef teas and soup made from meat are rich in \ extractive matters. An ox from four to five years of age I yields the fullest flavoured joints ; in older animals the fibres j tend to get coarse and tough ; in young animals like the calf 1 the flesh is immature, and not so rich in flavouring matters,

( for this reason sauces or rich gravies are served with veal.

FeM is not so easy to masticate or digest as beef, it is : richer in gelatinous matters and water, thus it is not so nourish- ing, weight for weight, as beef. Veal must be quite fresh to be good ; it does not keep so long as beef, it quickly turns flabby and moist, with an unpleasant smell. The lean of veal should be very pale and smooth, and the fat white and firm.

Mutio7i is chosen similarly to beef, the flesh is slightly paler, the fat white and firmer and the fibres finer ; for the latter reason mutton is considered and usually found to be easier to digest than beef, though beef is more sustaining. The best-flavoured mutton is usually from a sheep about three years old. Southdown and Welsh mutton are considered choice.

Lamb has a delicate flavour, it is more watery than mutton, i hence not so nutritious. Similarly to veal, it will not keep long.

Mint sauce is usually served with lamb to increase its flavour.

Pork. — The lean of pork should be of a pale pink colour i and smooth, the fibres fine, the fat white and firm, and the rind thin. The indigestibility of pork is usually ascribed to the large amount of fat and the close compact nature of the fibres. To be wholesome, pork must be quite fresh and well

56 POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

cooked. In curing, bacon becomes much easier to digest than pork.

Beef when salted loses some of its nutriment, the brine taking the place of some of the juice ; there is less loss when it is salted by injection than the older method of salting. Salted meat makes a pleasant change, but, if frequently in- dulged in, should be accompanied by fresh green vegetables and fruit, to make up the deficiency of the natural saline juices of the meat, and any excess of ordinary salt.

The London method of cutting up the various animals is into the following portions, and the prices stated represent the average in the West End, the prices might be a little less in other localities.

No. I (see p. 59). Leg of beef is the lower portion near the foot, it is rather sinewy and has little flesh in proportion to bone ; used for soups and beef-tea. If bought cut straight through meat and bone together, called stock meat, it costs 6\d. per lb. The meat cut from the bone is sold as gravy beef at 8^. per lb.

No. 2. Round of beef — sometimes cooked whole, then usually salted, spiced, and boiled. Weighs between 30 and 40 lbs. Cost %\d. per lb.

It is more usual for the round of beef to be cut into the three following joints : —

No. 2a. Top side, having practically no bone, it forms an economical roasting joint; it is more tender when eaten hot than when cold. Cost (j\d. to \od. per lb. The piece of beef called goose skirt, cut from between the top side and rump, is very tender and suitable for frying. Cost sod. per lb.

No. 2b. Silver side, usually salted, prime joint for boiling ; the leg bone is mostly sold with this joint. Cost 8^^. to ()d. per lb.

No. 2c. Buttock, cut into steaks for stewing, pies, or puddings. Cost from sod. to ss. per lb.

No. 3. Aitchbone, an awkward-looking joint with a large amount of bone, tender and juicy, usually roasted, good for stewing, (id. or "id. per lb.

NOTES ON MEAT

57

No. 4. Rump. — Mostly cut into steaks, prime part for grilling. The part cut from under the bone called fillet steaks. Cost IS. 4d. per lb.

A piece cut from the top of the rump marked 4a makes an excellent roasting joint, easy to carve. Cost ij-. to is. 2d. per lb.

No. 5. TJie Sirloin includes seven to eight short bones, cut into three to six joints. The first cut next to the rump, called the chump, has a little more bone in proportion, a piece of the hip bone from the rump is left with this. It has a thick fillet underneath. Cost lo^d. to iid. per lb. The next cut, called the middle, has also a thick fillet under. Cost ii^. to I i^d. per lb. The next, called the wing cut, has practically no fillet under. Cost lo^d. to iid. per lb.

A thick slice from the middle of the sirloin, grilled, is called a porterhouse steak.

No. 6. Fore-ribs include about five rib bones, usually cut into three portions. The wing rib is the cut next to the sirloin, usually in great request ; it has less on the thin end than the other ribs, consequently nearly the whole of the weight is the prime cut. Cost ii^. per lb., the other pieces io\d. to iid. per lb. These with the sirloins form the prime roasting joints. It is usual to serve grated horseradish or horseradish sauce with these joints.

The ribs, with the exception of the wing rib, are sometimes boned and rolled for roasting.

No. 7. Middle ribs include four rib bones, slightly inferior to the fore-ribs. Cost i^d. to (p^d. per lb. It is usual to cut the middle ribs, as marked on diagram, into three portions, called back ribs — the chine end — not so good as the next cut. Cost %d. to 8|^, The middle portion, called the top ribs, is a thick fleshy piece with much less bone. Cost lod. per lb. These joints are roasted. The other end, called thin top ribs or short bones. Cost, according to thickness of meat on the bones, from (i\d. to 'i\d. per lb. This makes a good small roasting joint, or may be salted and boiled.

No. 8. Chuck of beef includes three thick rib bones.

58

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

\

suitable for cutting into steaks for stewing for pies and puddings. Cost 8d. to gd. per lb. Sometimes in poor neighbourhoods it is cut with the bones into small roasting joints and sold at 6^d. per lb. Usually not very tender.

No. 8a. Leg of imitton piece, makes economical roasting joints, with very small bone and little fat. Fairly tender when eaten hot. Cost 8^. to 8^d. per lb.

No. 9. Clod of beef . — This is often boned and the gristle cut out, rolled and skewered and sold for roasting joints in poor localities, not often tender. Cost I>d. per lb. Best used for stewing.

No. 10. Neck. — Cut into cheap pieces for stews and soup. Cost (id. to ^d. lb.

No. II. Brisket. — Mostly salted and boiled, or boned and spiced for cold pressed beef. Cost (>\d. to ^\d. per lb., with bone.

No. 12. Thin flank. — Salted and boiled, sometimes rolled and roasted, ^d. per lb.

No. 13. Thick flank, or veiny piece. Cut into roasting joints, and steaks for frying. Cost, according to the end from which it is cut, to \od. per lb. The steaks are often sold as buttock at is. per lb.

No. 14. Shin. — Similar to the lowest portion of hind leg. Cost S^d. per lb.

No. 15. Ox cheek. — A cheap part for soups and stews. Cost A,d. per lb. The half head is often sold for 2s. 6d.

Ox palate. — Stewed. Cost i,d. or ^d. each.

Ox tofigues. — Pickled and boiled. Cost from 3^. 6d. to 6i'. each.

Ox sweetbreads, very inferior to calf s breads, coarse and red, usually stewed. Cost about is. per pair.

Thin skirt. — A loose, stringy-looking steak attached to the inside by the lower ribs. Good for frying and stewing. Some- times stuffed, rolled, and roasted. Cost lod. per lb.

Ox tail. — Cost 2s. to 31. 3^. each. Used for soups and stews.

Heart. — Cost 4^. per lb. Usually roasted, rather coarse.

NOTES ON MEAT

59

Top Side

6o POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

Liver.— Co^X. ^d. per lb. Usually cut into slices and fried, eats coarse.

Ox kidfiey, lod. per lb., for stewing chiefly. Makes good gravy in pies and puddings.

Tripe. — The lining of one of the stomachs of the ox. Partly dressed when sold retail ; Zd. per lb. stewed, popularly with milk and onions.

Co7v heel, ^d. and Zd. each, stewed with sauces. Also used for soups.

Melt — Mostly stewed, makes rich gravies. Can be fried. Cost 6d. each.

Calf

No. I. Leg or fillet of veal, mostly cut into slices for cutlets, fried or braised, or cut into thick pieces of about 3 or 4 lbs. for cushion or fricandeau of veal, then braised; from u. 2d. to ij. \d. per lb.

No. 2, Loin, mostly cut into two or three pieces, the chump end having more bone, usually sold \d. less per lb. than the other part. Roasted or braised.

No, 3. The best end, with kidney, often boned, stuffed, and roasted. Cost lo^d. to iid. per lb.

No. 4. Best end of rieck, cooked similarly to loin, or braised. If rather small sometimes cut into chops for frying. Cost \\d. to ij". per lb.

Middle cut of 7ieck, cost e^d. per lb. For stewing.

No, 5. Shoulder of veal. — Sometimes boned, stuffed, and roasted, or braised, or cut into two or more pieces. The piece from the middle, with a portion of the blade called oyster of veal, cost \od. to 10^^. per lb. The whole shoulder (^d. per lb.

No. 6. Best e7id of breast. — Good for roasting or braising, also used for galantines. Cost g^d. to xod. per lb.

No. 7. Thm e7id of breast, good for stews. Cost Zd. per lb.

No. 8. Scrag e/id of 7ieck. — Cheap part for stews or broth. Cost (id. per lb.

No, 9.' Calf's head, considered rather a choice dish, is often boiled and served with a sauce and boiled bacon, or it is boiled

NOTES ON MEAT

6r

i and finished in a variety of ways for entrees. Also used for making mock turtle soup. It can seldom be bought for less

Knuckle f )

than 5J.,and sometimes if veal is scarce it may cost ys. 6d, to 8j. Half a head can be bought at a little more than half the price of the whole.

62

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

Nos. lo and ii. Knuckles cost, according to size, from ^d. to Zd. per lb. The fore knuckle is usually more profitable, having more meat on it. Mostly boiled with parsley sauce. Also used for making soups or broth.

Calf's brains may be bought separately, used for entrees, stewed, fried, or au gratin ; (id. and %d. per set. A set means the brains from one head.

Calfs tongue. — Boiled and finished in well-flavoured sauces. Cost ij. ; these and the brains are difficult to get separately, they are usually sold with the head.

Calfs tail. — For soup. Cost (id. to 8</. each.

Calfs sweetbreads. — Rather expensive delicacies. Cost from 35-. (id. to "^s. a pair. They are blanched in water, then braised or boiled, served with various sauces 3 or partly cooked, cut into cutlets and fried.

Calfs liver cost 10^. to u. per lb. Braised whole, cut and fried with bacon, or used for various forcemeats.

Calfs heart, from Zd. to I^. each. Stuffed and roasted.

Calfs feet, used for jellies, stewed with sauce, or for soups (id. to 9^. each.

Sheep

The joints cut from the sheep are —

No. I. The leg. — Prime roasting joint, also boiled and braised. Cost from \od. to ii^. per lb.

No. \a. Hindquarter is a leg and loin in one joint, for roasting. Cost 10^. per lb.

Haunch of mutton is the leg cut, with a portion of chump end of loin left on. Cost 10^^. per lb. Roasted.

No. 2. Loin of mutton, usually roasted. Cost lo^a’. to \ id. per lb. The best end cut into chops for grilling, trimmed. Cost ij. 7,d. to iJ. 4^/. per lb.

No. 3. Saddle of mutton is the two loins not separated ; always roasted. Cost \od. to \\d. per lb.

It is usual to serve red currant jelly with this joint, also with the haunch and hindquarter.

Chump end, from about 2 lbs., contains rather a large bone ; roasted or stewed. Cost 8^^. per lb.

NOTES ON MEAT

63

No. 4. Neck of mutton, roasted, boiled, or braised. The whole neck to 9^. per lb. The best end for cutlets cooked

in various ways. Cost \o\d. or \\d. per lb. Cutlets cut and trimmed, u. i,d. per lb. The other end, without the scrag, suitable for stews and broth, ^\d. to 8^/. per lb.

64

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

Scrag end, for stews or broth. Cost 6^d. per lb.

No. 5. Breast of mutton, cheap joint for roasting, or for stews, ^d. to (id. per lb.

No. 6. (?/■//«/;//(?«, usually roasted, sometimes boiled

or braised.

Onion sauce is the accompaniment for roast shoulder of mutton. Onion or caper sauce is usually served with any joint of boiled mutton.

Sheep’s head makes excellent broth, sometimes served boiled and boned, with brain sauce or parsley sauce ; also partly boiled, boned, and finished by baking. Cost Zd, to sod. each.

Sheep's tongue, from 2\d. to ^d. each, boiled and braised.

Sheep's brains, used stewed, fried, and for sauce. Cost from 2d. to ifd. per set.

Sheep's sweetbreads are often sold as lamb’s, at 2s. per lb. ■, they are not so delicate, are harder and redder than lamb’s breads.

Sheep's kidneys cost from 3^^/. to ^d. each. Fried, grilled, or stewed.

Sheep's heart, ^d. to $d. each. Usually stuffed and roasted.

Sheep's liver. — Mostly sliced and fried with fat bacon, served with a thick gravy. Cost Zd. per lb.

Sheep's feet, — Stewed and served with thick sauce. Cost (id. each.

The pancreas, which is sometimes sold as sweetbread, can be bought with the melt and skirt at -^d. to (id. the set. Usually fried or baked.

Lamb

Lamb is cut into two hindquarters and two forequarters, and roasted. Cost, former is. per lb., the latter iid.

They are also divided into leg and loin, usually roasted. The former costs u. 2d. per lb., the latter is. id. per lb. The loin is sometimes cut into chops.

The forequarter is cut into shoulder, neck, and breast, or

NOTES ON MEAT

65

shoulder and target ; the latter is the neck and breast in one piece. Cost of shoulder ir. id. per lb., neck is. 2d. per lb., breast ijd. per lb., or target lod. per lb. These joints are roasted, braised, or stewed.

Mint sauce is the usual accompaniment to roast lamb.

The best end of the neck is also cut into cutlets, and cooked in various ways. Cost u. 4</. per lb.

Lamb's sweetbreads^ considered choice morsels ; sold by the pound, not under 2s. per lb. They are blanched in water, then finished in a variety of ways.

The head and viscera, — Cooked similarly to sheep’s.

Pig

1. Leg, a choice roasting joint, also boiled. Cost i)d. to 10^. per lb.

2. Loin, with kidney, roasted, or cut into chops for grilling. Cost io\d. to li'. per lb.

3. Grishin or fore loin, qd. to lod. per lb. Roasted or used for chops.

These joints of pork are often stuffed with sage and onions. It is usual to serve apple sauce with roast pork.

4. Spare Roasted or cut up for pies and sausages; ^d. to Zd. per lb.

5. Hand of pork.— \S%\X2i\\y boiled, but can be roasted; T^d. per lb.

6. Spring or bellj/.— Usually boiled, or cut up and stewed with rabbit; j^d. to gd. per lb.

Tifs head. — Boiled, or used for brawn ; 2>\d. to \d, per lb.

Pork is salted for boiling.

Pif s fry includes the viscera of the pig, as heart, liver, crow, and sometimes the lights. Makes a very savoury dish’ either baked or fried ; (>d, per lb. '

Liver, sold separately at ^d. per lb.

Pifs feet. — Boiled ; 2d. or 2>d. each.

K

66

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

6

Belly Piece

NOTES ON MEAT

67

Poultry and Game

Poultry turns bad quicker than game ; it should only be kept long enough to get tender — if at all high, the flavour is spoilt. The time it keeps depends largely on atmospheric conditions ; in very cold dry weather, poultry may keep for a week, but in warm weather, only for two or three days, unless kept in cold storage. Turkeys, fowls, geese, and ducks should be plucked directly they are killed, while the body is warm, in which case it will be found very much easier to do. Most of the fowls trussed in shops have the breast bone broken. This may make the bird look broader, and more showy for sale, but if it is not broken the breast can be more easily carved in slices without breaking, and the bird may still be trussed to have a nice plump appearance.

It is usual to choose dark-legged fowls for roasting, and white-legged ones for boiling. If young, the claws are supple, have scarcely any scales, the comb is bright-coloured, the legs are smooth, and the spurs in the cock bird short. The breastbone is soft, and bends! easily. In spring chickens the legs are very large in proportion to the body. Very fat fowls are not, as a rule, of such a fine flavour ; as much of the fat as possible should be removed before cooking.

Many frozen chickens are imported from America and Russia, and though good, are never so nice as home-fed birds.

Poultry requires to be well cooked. A large fowl will take from I to 1:5 hours to roast, a medium-sized one from 35 to 45 minutes, and a spring chicken from 20 to 30 minutes ; they should be frequently basted to keep them moist. For boiling, it is usual to allow 20 minutes to each pound, and 20 minutes over.

Old fowls should be used for broth ; if not very old, they may be stewed from 2 to 3 hours.

Rolls of bacon are served as a garnish to roast fowl. Watercress is often bunched at one end of the dish. Bread

68

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

sauce, good gravy, chip potatoes, and salad are also served along with roast fowl.

Boiled fowl is served with a variety of sauces, the most usual are Bechamel, white, egg, or parsley sauces.

Turkeys should be full breasted, legs firm and smooth, wattles a brilliant colour, claws supple, a short brush, if any. To roast a young turkey will take hours, a medium-sized one 2 hours, and a large one 2| to 3 hours.

Turkeys for roasting are usually stuffed with one of the following : sausage, veal, or chestnut. These stuffings are sometimes mixed, or placed in layers in the crop. The breast of the turkey should be covered with two or three thicknesses of greased paper, and should be well basted while cooking. Bread sauce, gravy, boiled ham, and fried sausages, if not used in the stuffing, are served with it. Stewed chestnuts are sometimes served as a garnish. Turkeys for boiling are also stuffed, and served with celery, white or oyster sauce.

Pigeons should be plump, the feet very supple and smooth. Bordeaux pigeons are considered choice, the French treatment shows the bird off to advantage, but young English pigeons are good eating.

Geese and ducks should be full breasted and firm, the feet yellow and supple, and the more smooth the skin is, the better. These are sometimes stuffed witli sage and onions.

Apple sauce is served with roast goose and roast duck.

Guinea-fowl are chosen and treated similarly to fowls, and served with the same accompaniments. They are rather drier, the breast is generally larded with bacon before roasting ; they require hanging similar to game before cooking. They keep a long time.

Game requires hanging, as the flavour develops more in keeping. Some keep better than others ; pheasants can usually be kept longer than partridges or grouse. AVoodcock and snipe, as they are not drawn, do not keep long ; the trail is cooked in the birds, and is considered a delicacy.

NOTES ON MEAT

69

Pheasants, partridges, and grouse will keep from four to six days before they are ready to be cooked ; but they may be kept three or four weeks if the weather be very cold, and special care be taken to keep them hung up in a cold, dry, airy place. They should be hung up by the beak, apart from each other, or laid on dry straw with the wings open. When the feathers on the breast come off easily, they are considered ready for use.

Young pheasants and grouse have short round spurs; but as many of the signs and tests for young birds may be intro- duced by dealers, it is not always easy to determine. Part- ridges should have yellow legs and dark bills. There are red-legged birds known as French, but in some parts of the Midlands they are very plentiful, and are sometimes not in- ferior in flavour to the better-known partridges.

^ One test often taken for all game is to hold them up by the lower portion of the beak ; if the bird is young it snaps ; also, look at the first wing feather, if old and not tampered with it is round at the tip ; if young enough to roast tender, it is sharp- pointed.

Wild duck, teal, and widgeon should not be kept more than one day.

Scotch ptarmigan are very scarce, and many of those now sold are Russian or Norwegian. The latter two require to be hung for some time to be tender.

Hares and rabbits, when young, have the claws sharp, narrow, cleft in lip, the ears damp; the lower jaw breaks easily. Only young hares should be roasted. Most of the foreign hares are coarse, and should only be used for jwgging.

Usually, venison may be kept from two to four or five weeks ; but it requires careful management. The length of time it will keep depends on the weather. It is sometimes wrapped in several cloths, or calico, and placed in good soil for three or four weeks, or hung up in a shady tree, but not allowed to get wet. The haunch and best end of neck are the prime parts; the shoulders and other part of the neck are

70

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

inferior, and are used for stews and pasties. The fat of venison from young deer is clear and white. Venison, before being roasted, is covered with well-greased paper, then with a paste made of flour and water, which is taken off just before the cooking is finished. The venison is then sprinkled with flour and quickly browned all over ; it must be well basted.

Red currant jelly, and a good gravy, or a port wine sauce, is served with venison.

Game is practically free from fat, and is easy of digestion, and more stimulating than poultry. It is usual to tie a slice of fat bacon over the breast of game when roasting ; this is termed barding. A vine-leaf is placed between the bacon and the breast of some small birds, such as quails, ortolans, ruffs, and reeves.

The birds are usually dished up on a thick slice of toast with the gravy, freed from fat that has dropped from the bird while roasting, poured over them. The dish is usually g*ar- nished with watercress, and with it are served salad and fried potatoes. Fried brown crumbs, bread sauce, and a good gravy are served separately in sauce-boats.

Orange sauce, or salad and quarters of lemon are usually served with wild duck.

To Truss a Fowl

After the feathers are .picked off, singe the hairs with a lighted taper or paper, and rub the fowl over with a cloth. Break the leg-bones by the feet, and cut the outer skin by the break, twist the foot to make sure the bone is broken through, then pull the foot, and the sinews will come out of the leg with it, at the same time holding the fowl firmly on the table with the other hand. The sinews can also be drawn out by cutting through the skin by the first joint, and pulling them out one at a time with a skewer. Turn the bird over and slit the skin at the back of the neck, cut the neck close to the body, leaving a long piece of the skin to fold over. Loosen the crop and the inside from the carcase as far as possible with the finger, then

NOTES ON MEAT

71

cut a small piece from the tail end and push in the finger and loosen the inside from the carcase, then pull out the gizzard, and the remainder of the inside will come with it. Wipe die bird out well with a clean dishcloth. Place the finger inside by tail-end, and loosen the skin over the legs, taking care not to break it, and push the legs up under the wings. Twist the pinion at the back of the wing, pass a trussing needle threaded with string through pinion and middle joint of wing, through

Fig. 3.

Fig. 4.

leg and carcase, as shown in Fig. i, now through the other leg, then wing as in Fig. 2, pass the needle through end of the neck skin, tie the two ends of string tightly together ; this will push the breast up plumply. Draw the skin of the lower end of breast over the legs, pass the needle through a portion of the end of the back, then through the skin and the leg above the bone under the end of breast, passing through the leg and skin on the other side as in Fig. 3 ; now through the back, and tie the string tightly. Fig. 4 shows the fowl ready for roasting.

I

72

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

To truss a fowl for boiling, the legs, after the sinews are drawn out, are chopped off up to the first joint. Place the finger in the lower end and loosen the skin carefully over the

legs, pushing the leg up until it slips inside the skin against the body. Proceed truss- ing the top part in the same way as for roasting. Pass the needle through a piece of the back ; draw the skin straight over the end of the legs, pass the needle through a piece of the skin, then across over the legs through skin the other side, then the back, and tie the string tightly together. Fig. 5 shows fowl trussed for boiling.

Turkeys, pigeons, and most game birds are trussed in a similar manner to fowls.

To prepare woodcock and snipe. — These are not drawn ; part of the wing is cut off, the head picked, the legs pushed up under wings, and the beak passed through the leg, body, and out through leg on the other side. Tie the end of the legs to the tail of the bird, and then slip the string round the beak and tie to keep it in place ; fasten a slice of fat bacon over the breast. Toast is laid under these birds while roast- ing, to receive the drippings. The birds are served on the toast.

To bone a fowl or turkey. — It is easier to bone a fowl if not drawn. Draw the sinews from the legs. Cut off the pinions. Slit the skin at the neck ; sever the neck close to the carcase, leaving the skin about three inches in length. Turn the skin back, and with a sharp-pointed knife take out the merry thought; sever the joint by the wing ; pull the flesh from the carcase ; it will tear off easily, loosening with the fingers ; or cut, if necessary, until the legs are reached. These must be cut through by the thigh joint, then separate the remainder from the carcase. Pull the legs and wings inside, take out the bones and any sinews. If for stuffing in shape, turn it inside out. If for galantines, the skin can be cut through at the back ; lay it on a board, skin downwards, ready for stuffing.

Fig. 5.

NOTES ON MEAT

73

To prepare the giblets— ZvX the gall-bladder from the liver without breaking it. Pull the neck from the head, and cut into two or three pieces. Cut through a thick part of the gizzard to the inside skin ; take care not to cut through this, as it forms a bag filled with stony matter, and if cut cannot so easily be separated. Peel off the fleshy part, and cut, if large. Wash the giblets in two or three waters. Chop ofif the nails from the feet, scald the feet in boiling water; this loosens the outer skin, then tear it off. Giblets are used for making gravy for poultry, for soup, or pies.

To prepare a rabbit for roasting or boiling. — Chop off the feet, separate the furry skin from the inner skin by the pouch with the fingers, then draw the legs through to the inside, pulling the skin off the reverse way. Turn the rabbit over, back upwards, and tear the skin off with one hand, holding the rabbit on the table with the other. The shoulders must be pulled through ; a knife may be necessary to use in separating the skin from the head. Take out the eyes, and chop off the front teeth ; break through the chest cavity, and pull out the inside. The liver, heart, and kidneys are used, the remainder thrown away. Wash the rabbit well ; cut through the leaders at the middle of the shoulders and legs ; also notch the top of the legs close to the tail, this allows them to bend round easily. Draw the shoulders straight down by the sides, and turn the legs against them. Pass a threaded needle through

the leg, shoulder, and underneath the body through shoulder and leg on the other side, then tie the string tightly over the back. Now pass the needle through top joint of the shoulder, through the back of the head under the ears, and through the joint on the other side; this makes the head stand upright.

Fig. 6.

Fig. 7.

74 POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

Fig. 6 shows rabbit trussed complete. A hare is prepared and trussed in the same manner ; it is usual to leave the ears on, skinned, for roast hare.

When trussing a rabbit for boiling, pull the head round, and pass the needle through the jaws after it has been passed through the legs and body ; then the string is tied over the back, as shown in Fig. 7.

Boiled rabbit is served with white, parsley, or onion sauce.

CHAPTER VI

ENTREES AND JOINTS

Creme

Breast of a large chicken, f oz. of flour.

^ oz. of butter.

I gill of milk.

4 gill of cream.

de Volaille

I small onion.

Slice of carrot.

Small bunch of herbs.

Salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

I yolk and 2 whites of eggs.

Place the onion, sliced, with carrot, herbs, and milk in a stewpan on the corner of the stove for twenty minutes. Melt the butter in a pan, stir the flour in it for two minutes over the stove, without allowing it to colour, then strain the milk from the vegetables on to it, stirring smoothly until it boils, then let it cool. Scrape the chicken finely and pound it well, add the sauce, well mix, and pass through a fine wire sieve. Place it in a basin, well mix in the yolk and seasonings. Whip the white of eggs stiffly, also whip the cream a little, stir both lightly into the mixture. Test a small quantity by rolling in a little flour and poaching for five minutes. Decorate a buttered souffld mould with tongue, ham, or truffle cut into fancy shapes. Place in the chicken mixture, shake it down well, smooth the surface, and cover with buttered paper and steam for three-quarters of an hour. Turn out, and serve with either supreme or veloute sauce.

ENTREES AND JOINTS

75

Tartlettes de Volaille k la Talleyrand

7 or S pufT-paste tartlets.

Breast of a large raw chicken.

I oz. of butter 'j

ij ozs. of flour >for the panada

1 gill of milk J

2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of cream.

Pepper and salt.

J lb. of small mushrooms. I oz. of butter.

Lemon juice and nutmeg. Pistachio nuts.

I

I

Make some tartlets from puff paste, cut some round pieces of crust of bread and place in the centres of each, bake them lightly, take out the crusts. Make a panada and let it cool. Pound the chicken well, add the panada, pound it again, then pass through a wire sieve. Put it into a basin, add cream, pepper, salt, and nutmeg'; test the mixture. Peel, wash, and chop the mushrooms, cook them in a little butter and a teaspoonful of lemon juice, season with pepper and salt. Pound them in the mortar and pass through a sieve. Half fill the tartlets with the chicken ; dip your finger into hot water and make a hole in the centre of the chicken. Fill this space with the puree of mushrooms, cover with the remainder of the chicken. Chop the pistachio nuts and sprinkle over the tops Place them in a moderate oven for about fifteen or twenty minutes. Dish them upon a paper or serviette, and serve with some good white sauce in a sauce-boat.

Puree de Volaille k la Polonaise

Half a cold cooked chicken. I oz. of butter.

I oz. of flour.

I gill of chicken stock.

I gill of milk.

6 small fresh eggs.

Croutons of fried bread. Pepper, salt, and lemon juice. Scraps of ham or bacon.

Cut off all the meat from the chicken. Put the bones and skin into a saucepan with some onion, carrot, herbs, and a pinch i of salt; cover with cold water, allow this to simmer for an hour or longer, then strain for the stock. Pound the pieces of chicken in a mortar and pass it through a coarse wire sieve. Make the butter hot in a saucepan, add the scraps of ham or bacon and stir over the fire, then stir in the flour, do not let it colour. Take the pan off the fire and mix in the stock and

76

POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

milk, stir until it boils, season to taste with the pepper, salt, and lemon juice ; a tablespoonful of cream added will be a great improvement. Put the chicken into a saucepan, add two or three tablespoohfuls of the sauce ; the chicken must be kept stiff enough to stand up in a pile. Let the purde stand on the stove to keep warm. Put the eggs in cold water, and allow them to boil for five minutes, then shell them carefully. Pile the chicken up high on an entrde dish, stand the eggs round and decorate between each egg and on the top with the crofitons. Pour the sauce round.

I chicken.

1 small onion. Piece of carrot. Piece of celery. Bunch of herbs. 6 peppercorns. Blade of mace.

2 ozs. of butter.

Fricassee of Chicken

' 2^ OZS. of flour.

2 yolks of eggs.

J gill of cream.

Salt and pepper.

I teaspoonful of lemon juice. Crofltons of bread.

1 8 button mushrooms.

Water or white stock.

Truss the chicken, place it in a stewpan and barely cover with water or stock ; add the vegetables, cleaned and sliced, the herbs, mace, and peppercorns. Let it boil, then skim it, and allow it to simmer gently for about three-quarters of an hour. Take up the chicken and let it cool. Strain the stock. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, and stir on the stove for three minutes without allowing it to colour. Pour in the stock, mixing smoothly ; stir it over the fire until it boils. If too thin, reduce by boiling. Beat up the yolks, cream, and lemon juice in a basin, pour the sauce into it, stirring at the same time ; turn it back into the pan, stir it on the stove a few minutes, taking care it does not boil, or it will curdle. Now strain it and pour back into the saucepan ; season with salt. Cut the chicken into neat joints, remove the skin, and place the pieces in the sauce, and warm through. Skin and wash the mushrooms, cook them for five minutes in a saucepan with a little butter and a squeeze of lemon, then add them to the chicken. Fry some crofitons of bread, and stick a few on a

77

ENTRIES AND JOINTS

hot dish, in a circle, with a paste of flour and water. Place the dish in the oven a few minutes to fasten the bread on. Then dish up the chicken in a pile in the centre of the crofltons, and pour the sauce over. Stick three or four croutons between the chicken and serve.

Legs of Chicken

Legs of 2 chickens.

J lb. of pork sausages.

Slices of cooked tongue.

I teaspoonful of chopped parsley.

I onion.

Piece of carrot.

Bunch of herbs.

a la Wellington

6 peppercorns.!

Blade of mace.

Salad oil.

I J ozs. of flour.

I pint of gravy.

Pepper and salt. CroCitons of bread.

This dish can be made with the legs of a chicken when the breast has been used for chicken cutlets or souffld. Pull the sinews out of the legs and bone them. Mix the sausage meat with the parsley or a few pistachio nuts, pepper, salt, and the tongue cut into pieces about half an inch square. Fill the legs with this mixture, and fasten the ends. Make some oil hot in a pan, and fry the legs all over to a brown colour ; put on to a plate, and fry the onions and the flour quite brown, add the gravy, stir until it boils ] then put back the pieces of chicken, the carrot, herbs, peppercorns, and mace. The carcase and the wings, if not used, should also be put in. Allow it to simmer for one hour ; season to taste. Dish up the legs, strain the sauce, and pour over. Garnish with the crofltons.

Mayonnaise of Chicken

A cooked chicken.

J pint of Mayonnaise sauce (see page i2o).

2 hard-boiled eggs.

Salad.

Tarragon and chervil. Oil and vinegar. Pepper and salt.

The chicken can be boiled or roasted j when cold, cut it into neat joints, place in a basin, season with a little pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar. Wash and dry the salad well, and cut into small pieces, chop a teaspoonful each of tarragon and chervil and mix with it. Mix a teaspoonful of vinegar and two tea- spoonfuls of oil in a basin, with some pepper and salt ; toss the

78 POLYTECHNIC COOKERY BOOK

salad lightly in it, and pile up on a flat dish. Mix a little '' cream into some Mayonnaise sauce, lay the pieces of chicken | on a dish, and mask each piece with some sauce ; decorate the 1 tops, if liked, with some tarragon, chervil, beetroot, or tongue ' cut into tiny shapes. Arrange the pieces of chicken on the salad, and decorate round with the hard-boiled eggs cut into sections, *■ or some aspic jelly cut into shapes, beetroot, or cucumber. j

I

Fried Mutton Cutlets

Best end of neck of mutton. I i teaspoonful of chopped parsley.

6 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs. Beaten egg.

2 ozs. of cooked lean ham, chopped. 1

Take the chine bone off the mutton, and saw through the bones, leaving them about five inches in length. Lay the mutton, the bone side upwards, on a board^ cut through between each bone. Trim some of the fat off each cutlet, and cut the meat off the thin end, leaving one inch of the bone quite bare. Flatten a little with a broad knife or a chopper. Trim them again neatly. Mix the bread crumbs, ham, and parsley to- gether on a sheet of paper. Then brush each cutlet all over with the beaten egg and cover with the crumbs. Press the crumbs on each cutlet with a knife. Make about one ounce of butter or dripping hot in a pan, put in the cutlets, fry them rather quickly on both sides till of a rich brown colour ; then dish them up in a circle on some mashed potatoes or spinach, and pour either a brown sauce or good gravy round.

Cutlets of Mutton a la Provengale

Best end of neck of mutton. 3 onions.

\ oz. of butter, j oz. of flour.

2 ozs. of cooked bam.

5 gill of milk.

2 yolks of eggs.

4 teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 2 lablespoonfuls of bread crumbs. J tablespoonful of grated Par- mesan cheese.

Pepper and salt.

Cut the mutton into seven or eight cutlets, and fry them

for one and a half minutes on one side only. Put them between two dishes with a weight on the top to press. Peel

79

ENTREES AND JOINTS

I and quarter the onions, boil them in the milk until quite soft , I then strain and pass them through a sieve. Melt the butter i in a saucepan, add the flour, and stir over the fiie for two minutes, without allowing it to colour. Add the milk from the onions, and stir over the fire until it boils. Then put in the yolks, and stir briskly over the fire for another minute. Add the onion purde, the ham chopped finely, the parsley, pepper and salt to taste ; turn it on to a plate to get cold. When i cold divide it into equal portions, one for each cutlet; spread ! it smoothly over the cooked side of the cutlets. Mix the i cheese and crumbs together and sprinkle over the cutlets.

Place some pieces of butter on the tops. Make a little butter I hot in 'a frying-pan or tin. Put the cutlets in and fry for one minute over the fire, then put them into a hot oven for six or seven minutes to brown the tops nicely. Dish them on some mashed potatoes and pour some very good gravy round.

Lamb^s Sweetbreads

9 lambs’ sweetbreads.

J lb. of fat bacon.

I onion.

Larded and Braised

J carrot.

I bunch of herbs.

I pint of stock.

Soak the sweetbreads in water for half an hour, then